Midi Flounce Skirt Dress for Tea party

 

Midi Flounce Skirt Dress comprehensive guide.

1. Analysis of the Dress Design

The dress in the painting is a charming tea party style, characterised by a few key features:

• Bodice: A fitted bodice with a deep V-neckline and a sleeveless design. The waist is defined by a simple, fitted waistband.
• Skirt: A full, midi-length flounce skirt. This is likely a semi-circle or full-circle skirt, which gives it its soft, flowing waves.
• Outer Flounce: A unique, asymmetrical outer layer flounce that starts at the left hip and spirals down to the right thigh. This cascading layer adds movement and visual interest.
• Overall Fit: The dress is fitted through the bust and waist, then flares out dramatically at the hips.

2. Suitable Fabrics and Materials

The painterly style of the image suggests a fabric that holds its shape well but also has a beautiful, soft drape.

Fabrics:

• Cotton Sateen: A great choice that offers a slight sheen, a smooth surface, and enough body to support the flounce skirt.
• Linen/Cotton Blend: Provides a natural texture and is breathable for warm weather. It will have a slightly more structured look.
• Lightweight Dupioni Silk: For a more luxurious feel, this fabric has a beautiful iridescent sheen and a crispness that will hold the flounce shape.
• Voile or Lawn: These very lightweight fabrics would create an even softer, more ethereal drape, but may require a more structured lining to maintain the shape of the flounce.

Other Materials:

• Lining Fabric: A lightweight, smooth lining fabric like cotton batiste, silk habotai, or a high-quality polyester lining is essential for comfort and a clean finish.
• Invisible Zipper: A 30-40 cm (12-16 inch) invisible zipper for the centre back seam.
• Interfacing: Lightweight woven interfacing for the bodice facings and waistline to provide stability.
• Thread: Matching polyester thread.

3. Body Measurements

Accurate measurements are crucial for a well-fitting garment. Take these measurements over your undergarments.

• Bust Circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your bust.
• Waist Circumference: Measure around the narrowest part of your torso.
• Shoulder to Waist: Measure from the highest point of your shoulder, over the bust, down to your natural waistline.
• Back Width: Measure from armhole to armhole across your upper back.
• Shoulder to Shoulder: Measure across the top of your back from the tip of one shoulder to the other.
• Back Neck to Waist: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of your neck down to your natural waistline.
• Skirt Length: Measure from your natural waistline down to the desired midi length (typically mid-calf).

4. Pattern Drafting

The pattern consists of four main pieces: front bodice, back bodice, main skirt, and outer flounce skirt.

a. Bodice (Front and Back)

1. Basic Block: Start with a basic sleeveless bodice block drafted to your measurements. If you don't have one, you can draft a simple block using your bust, waist, and shoulder measurements.
2. V-Neckline: From the centre front, lower the neckline to your desired depth. Draw a straight or slightly curved line from this point up to the shoulder seam, creating the V-neck shape.
3. Sleeveless Armhole: The armhole should be shaped to a standard sleeveless armscye.
4. Darts: Maintain the bust and waist darts for a fitted look. You can leave them as is or "pivot" the bust dart into the waist dart for a single, long dart.
5. Back Bodice: The back bodice should have a centre back seam for the zipper. Ensure the shoulder seam and side seam lengths match the front bodice.

b. Main Flounce Skirt (Midi-Length)

This is a full circle skirt. You will draft a pattern for a quarter of the skirt.

1. Waist Radius: Calculate the radius for the waistline. The formula is:
   
   R=2πWaist Circumference 
• For example, if your waist is 70 cm:
  
  R=2×3.1470 ≈11.15 cm
2. Draw the Waist Arc: On a large piece of paper, draw a right angle. From the corner, measure your calculated radius (R) along both lines and draw a curved arc connecting them. This is your waistline.
3. Skirt Length: From the waist arc, measure your desired skirt length down along both lines of the right angle and the arc. Draw a final curved line connecting these points. This is your hemline.
4. Pattern Piece: This quarter-circle shape is your pattern piece. You will cut four of these for the full skirt (two for the front, two for the back).

c. Outer Flounce Skirt

This is the most complex part of the pattern. It is an asymmetrical, cascading flounce.

1. Draft a Long, Curved Strip: On a long sheet of paper, draft a long, curved strip that starts with a gentle curve and gradually increases in curve and width. The inner curve of the strip is the seam line that will be attached to the main skirt. The outer curve is the hemline.
2. Spiral Path: The attachment point for this flounce starts on the left hip and curves down to the right thigh. You will need to mark this path on your main skirt pattern piece.
3. Flounce Calculation: The shape of the pattern piece is key. A wider, more curved strip will create a more dramatic flounce. The length of the inner curve should be slightly longer than the length of the spiral path on the main skirt to create the gathering and flounce effect.

5. Seam Allowances and Lining

• Seam Allowances: Use a standard 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) seam allowance for all seams: side seams, shoulder seams, waist seams, and the centre back seam.
• Lining: Cut lining pieces for the front and back bodice and for the main flounce skirt using the same pattern pieces.

6. Instructions and Method for Construction

1. Preparation: Pre-wash and iron your fabric. Cut out all pattern pieces, including the lining. Transfer all markings (darts, notches) to the fabric.
2. Bodice:
• Sew the front and back bodice darts.
• Sew the shoulder seams and side seams. Press all seams open.
• Sew the bodice lining pieces together in the same manner.
• With right sides together, pin and sew the bodice facing pieces to the main bodice along the neckline and armholes. Understitch the facings.
• Turn the bodice right-side out and press.
3. Zipper:
• Sew the centre back seam of the main bodice from the waist up, leaving a large opening for the zipper.
• Install the invisible zipper into the centre back seam.
4. Skirts:
• Sew the side seams of the main flounce skirt. Hem the bottom edge with a narrow hem (or a rolled hem for a beautiful, delicate finish).
• Hem the outer flounce skirt piece.
• Pin and sew the outer flounce skirt onto the main skirt, following the curved path from the hip to the thigh.
5. Final Assembly:
• Run a gathering stitch along the top raw edge of the main skirt (the waistline). Gently pull the threads to gather the skirt to match the waist circumference of the bodice.
• With right sides together, pin the skirt to the bodice at the waistline. Sew the waist seam.
• Finish the waist seam by serging or using a zigzag stitch.
• Press the entire dress, paying special attention to the seams and waistline.

7. General Sewing Tips

• Pressing is Key: Press every seam as you sew. This is the single most important step for a professional-looking garment.
• Stay-stitching: Before sewing, stay-stitch the V-neckline and armholes (curved seams) 0.5 cm (1/4 inch) from the raw edge to prevent them from stretching out.
• Needle and Thread: Use a sharp needle and high-quality polyester thread that is the correct weight for your fabric.
• Basting: When in doubt, baste the seams together by hand or with a long machine stitch and try the dress on before final sewing.
• Hemming: For a circular hem, try a narrow hem with a rolled hem foot or a blind stitch for a clean, invisible finish.