Trousers Guide on measurement and Drafting

 

How to Take Measurements for Tailor-Made Pants

Accurate measurements are crucial for a perfect-fitting pair of tailor-made pants. Here's a step-by-step guide:

Essential Tools:

Measuring tape

Pencil and paper

Key Measurements:

1. Waist:
• Wrap the measuring tape around your natural waistline, ensuring it's level and snug but not tight.
2. Hips:
• Measure around the fullest part of your hips, ensuring the tape is parallel to the floor.
3. Thigh:
• Measure the circumference of your thigh at its widest point.
4. Knee:
• Measure the circumference of your knee.
5. Cuff:
• Measure the circumference of your ankle.
6. Rise (Front and Back):
• Front Rise: Measure from your natural waistline to the crotch seam of a well-fitting pair of pants.
• Back Rise: Measure from your natural waistline to the crotch seam at the back of the same pants.
7. Out-seam:
• Measure from your waistline to the desired length of the pants (ankle or floor).
8. Inseam:
• Measure from the crotch seam to your desired length (ankle or floor).

Additional Measurements (Optional):

• Calf: Measure the circumference of your calf at its widest point.
• Seat: Measure the fullest part of your buttocks.

Tips for Accurate Measurements:

• Wear minimal clothing to avoid bulk.
• Stand straight and relaxed.
• Ensure the measuring tape is parallel to the floor.
• Double-check your measurements for accuracy.

Visual Guide:

For a visual demonstration, consider watching a tutorial video on platforms like YouTube. Many tailors also provide detailed measurement guides on their websites.

Consider Your Desired Fit:

• Discuss your preferred fit with your tailor (e.g., slim, regular, loose).
• Provide examples of pants that fit you well.

Remember: It's always recommended to consult with a professional tailor for the most accurate and personalised measurements. They can provide expert guidance and ensure the perfect fit for your tailor-made pants.

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Drafting a Basic Pattern for Trousers

Disclaimer: Drafting a perfect pattern requires practice and understanding of body measurements, fabric, and desired fit. This guide provides a basic overview. For intricate details and adjustments, consulting a pattern-making book or seeking professional guidance is recommended.

Essential Tools

• Large sheet of paper (pattern paper or brown paper)
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Tape measure
• Square

Necessary Measurements

Before starting, ensure you have accurate body measurements:

• Waist circumference
• Hip circumference
• Thigh circumference
• Knee circumference
• Ankle circumference
• Rise (front and back)
• Inseam length
• Out-seam length

Basic Pattern Drafting Steps

1. Create a Basic Rectangle:

• Determine the overall length of the trouser.
• Draw a vertical line representing this length.
• From the top of this line, draw a horizontal line equal to half your hip measurement plus ease (usually 2-3 inches).

1. Divide the Rectangle:

• Divide the rectangle vertically into two equal parts to separate the front and back patterns.
• Mark the midpoint of the vertical line. This will be the crotch point.

1. Determine Hip and Waist Points:

• Measure down from the top of the rectangle (waistline) to the hip line.
• Mark the hip line on both sides of the vertical line.
• Determine the waistline points for both front and back based on your waist measurement and desired fit.

1. Create the Crotch Curve:

• The crotch curve is crucial for fit. It differs between front and back.
• Front crotch: Gently curve the line from the waist to the crotch point.
• Back crotch: Create a deeper curve from the waist to the crotch point.

1. Shape the Legs:

• Mark the knee line and ankle line based on your measurements.
• Gradually taper the leg from the knee to the ankle.
• Consider the desired fit (slim, regular, or wide).

1. Add Seam Allowances:

• Add seam allowances to all pattern edges. Typically, 5/8 inch is standard.

1. Create the Other Leg:

• Fold the pattern paper in half along the vertical centre line.
• Trace the completed half of the pattern to create the other leg.

Additional Considerations

• Ease: Allow for ease in the waist and hips for comfort.
• Fit adjustments: The initial pattern is a base. You might need adjustments based on your body shape and desired fit.
• Fabric: The type of fabric can influence pattern adjustments.
• Style: Different pant styles (e.g., jeans, chinos, dress pants) require variations in the pattern.

Tips

• Start with a simple style and gradually increase complexity.
• Use a muslin to test the pattern before cutting into your final fabric.
• Refer to pattern-making books or online tutorials for more detailed instructions and advanced techniques.

Remember: Pattern drafting is a skill that improves with practice. Don't be discouraged by initial challenges.

Pant Draft for Girl

Pant Basic Draft with Extension Dots for Girl

Drafting Children's Patterns for Commercial Production

 

Want to create trendy children's clothes for commercial production? This trick will save you tons of time!

Here's the secret: You can use a single "master draft pattern" as the foundation for all your children's clothing sizes.

Step 1: The Master Draft

Imagine a picture of a basic children's garment pattern with red dots marking key points. This is your master draft pattern.

Step 2: Size Adjustments

Now, picture green dots around those red dots. These green dots represent where you'll adjust the pattern for different sizes. You can expand or shrink the pattern outwards from the red dots based on your desired ease allowance (how loose or fitted the garment will be).

The Magic:

By starting with this master draft and adjusting it for different sizes, you can quickly create a range of commercial-sized children's clothing patterns without having to start from scratch each time!

Bonus Tip:

For detailed instructions on drafting bodices, sleeves, and taking children's measurements for tailor-made garments, check out our resources on "Draft Bodice, Sleeve and Measurement for Kid Tailor-Made."

This simplified approach to drafting children's patterns empowers you to focus on creating fantastic, fashionable clothes for kids!

Children Dress Pattern Draft

Children Sleeve Pattern Draft

Draft for Bodice, Sleeve and Measurement for Kid Tailor-Made

 

Shaping Your Foundation Pattern with Ease

Now that you have the basic outline, let's add ease allowances and shape your body foundation pattern!

Shoulders:

1. Extend straight lines from the top of your shaping marks on both the front and back bodice.
2. Measure 2 cm up from the original shoulder guidelines and mark these points. These will be your new shoulder lines.
3. Shorten the ends of the original shoulder guidelines by 1 cm each.

Neck Back:

1. Draw a smooth curve from the top of the back shaping towards the centre back neckline.

Neck  Front:

1. Measure 2.5 cm downwards from the end of each shoulder guideline. Mark these points.
2. Draw a curved line connecting these points to create the front neckline.

Waist:

1. Add a 1 cm dart on each side of the waistline (one on the front bodice piece and one on the back bodice piece). Remember, some darts are necessary for shaping, while others can be added for design details.

Side Seams:

Don't just connect the waistlines! Here's how to create a smooth curve:

1. Measure 1/4 of your waist measurement with ease allowance added.
2. Starting from this point on the side seam, draw a curved line that connects the bodice shaping points to the bottom of the pattern.

By following these steps, you'll create a foundation pattern with shaped seams and ease allowances for a comfortable fit.

Shaping Your Sleeve Foundation Pattern with Ease 

1. Draw the measurement ease allowance underarm line and a centre shoulder point line in full sleeve length.

2. Mark a centre shoulder point  using the sleeve cap measurement ease allowance.

3.Then draw the lines from the shoulder point toward back and front underarm lines.

4. For the back sleeve curve divide slope line by 3 to get 1/3 measurement for the lower point underarm line reduce 1 cm inward curve and increase 1.5 cm upward before shaping the top curve.

5. For the front sleeve curve divide by slope line by 2 to get half point underarm curve reduce 1 cm inward and increase 2 cm outward then shaping the top curve.

 With the basic sleeve outline you are able to shape your sleeve.

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Method of Drafting Children Main Pattern based on example size 5 in cm.

Measurement can be in inches [inch] or centimetres [cm]

Measurement

Height about 115cm

Chest 62cm

Waist 57cm

Hip 64cm

Back Waist Length 27.75

Semi Fitted Ease Allowance

Chest 7cm

Waist 3.5cm

Full Hip 8cm

Therefore add the Measurement and Ease Allowance then divide by 4 [Quarter Pattern].

Chest 62cm + 7cm = 69cm /4 = 17.25cm

Waist 57cm +3.5cm =60.5/4 = 15.1cm

Hip 64cm + 8cm = 72cm/ 4= 18cm

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Children Pattern Sizes

Create different pattern sizes from the Basic Pattern Method with different ease allowances. 

For Children Pattern size uses Semi Fitted Ease Allowance for extra room. Children grow at a greater rate with the extra room enable a child to wear a garment through a certain time while the garment is still in good condition.

Semi Fitted Ease Chest: 7   Waist: 3.5 Hip: 8

Allowance-cm:

Measurement Guide

Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Chest: 60 Waist: 56 Hip: 62

Height: 108

Back Waist Length: 27.5

Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Chest: 62 Waist: 57 Hip: 64

Height: 115

Back Waist Length: 27.75

Size 6 [Age 6] in cm Chest: 64 Waist: 58 Hip: 66

Height: 120

Back Waist Length: 28

Size 7 [Age 7] in cm Chest: 66 Waist: 59 Hip: 68

Height: 125

Back Waist Length: 28.25

Size 8 [Age 8] in cm Chest: 68 Waist: 60 Hip: 72

Height: 130

Back Waist Length: 28.5

For increases the Pattern Sizes just add the different same as decreases Pattern Sizes less the different.

Example on increases the Pattern Sizes:

Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Chest: 60

Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Chest: 62

Chest 62 less 60 so the different is 2cm divide by 4 = .5cm

Then add the different [.5cm] to Size 5 Chest measurement

Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Waist: 56

Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Waist: 57

Waist: 57 less 56 so the different is 1cm divide by 4 = .25cm

Then add the different [.25cm] to Size 5 Waist measurement

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Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Hip: 62

Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Hip: 64

Hip 62 less 64 so the different is 2cm divide by 4 = .5cm

Then add the different [.5cm] to Size 5 Hip measurement

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Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Back Waist Length: 27.5

Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Back Waist Length: 27.75

Back Waist Length: 27.75 less 27.5 so the different is .25

Increase [.25cm] for Size 5 Center Neck and Shoulder measurement