Ribbon Lattice is a modern, high-fashion minimalist gown that marries a clean, structured front silhouette with a breathtaking architectural open back. The front features a high neckline and sleek, bias-cut body, while the entire back dips into a dramatic low V or squared contour bridged by an intricate, tension-calibrated web of interwoven silk satin ribbons. These ribbons cross diagonally to create secure structural stability while exposing bare skin underneath, balancing sensual romance with avant-garde tailoring.
Specifications & Measurements
Fabric Types
- Shell: Heavyweight silk crepe de chine or silk Mikado (for a crisp, structural front bodice and skirt drape).
- Ribbons: Double-faced silk satin ribbons (1 inch to 1.5 inches wide) for the back lattice, providing strength and a luxurious lustre.
- Lining: Lightweight silk habotai or stretch charmeuse for a fluid interior finish.
- Interfacing: Featherweight fusible tricot interfacing to support the neckline and zipper stabilisation areas.
Standard Body Measurement Chart (Size 8 / Medium Baseline)
- Bust: 34 inches (86 cm)
- Under-bust: 29 inches (74 cm)
- Waist: 26 inches (66 cm)
- High Hip (7 inches below waist): 34 inches (86 cm)
- Full Hip (9 inches below waist): 36 inches (92 cm)
- Shoulder to Waist (Front): 16.5 inches (42 cm)
- Center Back Length: 15.5 inches (39 cm)
- Skirt Length (Waist to Floor): 44 inches (112 cm)
Step-by-Step Pattern Drafting Guide
1. Front Bodice
- Start with a basic bodice sloper fitted to your measurements. Close the bust dart and transfer it into a French dart running from the side seam down toward the bust point for a sleek, uninterrupted silhouette.
- Draw a clean high boatneck or jewel neckline. Lower the armscye by 0.5 inches for ease of movement.
- Add a centre-front seam line if working with a curved panel design, or cut on the fold for a seamless centre.
2. Back Bodice
- Trace the back sloper, but slash the centre back entirely open down to the waistline or lower back contour.
- Lower the back neckline into a dramatic V-shape, ending precisely at the side seams where the ribbon grid will anchor.
- Mark precise structural notches along the left and right cut edges spaced 1.5 inches apart from the shoulder blade down to the waist; these indicate where the silk ribbons will be securely sandwiched and stitched into the seam allowance.
3. Front and Back Skirt
- Draft a slim A-line or a slight trumpet skirt sloper matching the waist dimensions of your drafted bodice pieces.
- Blend the waistline smoothly. For the back skirt, draft an invisible zipper extension running down the centre back skirt seam (ending below the ribbon grid termination point).
4. Lining and Seam Allowances
- Lining Pattern: Trace exact copies of the front and back bodice/skirt panels, omitting any exterior decorative panels. Cut the back lining with a finished facing edge to cleanly conceal the interior ribbon anchors.
- Seam Allowances: Apply a standard 0.5-inch (1.3 cm) seam allowance to all structural joining seams (side seams, shoulder seams, waist seams). Apply 1-inch (2.5 cm) seam allowances to the centre-back skirt zip entry and hemline.
Construction Instructions
- Interfacing and Stabilisation: Fuse lightweight tricot interfacing to the front bodice neckline and back bodice anchor edges to prevent the silk from stretching under the tension of the ribbons.
- Assemble the Front Bodice: Sew the French darts on the front bodice panels. Press them downward. Join the front bodice to the front skirt at the waistline, finishing the seam with a clean French seam or serged edge.
- Construct the Ribbon Lattice Back:
- Lay the unlined back bodice panels flat. Pin and stitch the cut ends of your double-faced silk satin ribbons securely into the inner back raw edges at your marked notch points.
- Interweave the ribbons diagonally across the open back space to form a firm, uniform diamond lattice.
- Pin the opposite ends into the corresponding notches on the opposing back panel, keeping uniform tension so the lattice does not buckle or sag. Baste securely within the 0.5-inch seam allowance.
- Join Lining and Shell: Stitch the back lining over the raw ribbon-anchored edges, sandwiching the ribbon ends securely between the shell and the lining for a flawless, professional finish.
- Skirt and Zipper Assembly: Join the back skirt panels, inserting an invisible zipper along the lower centre back seam where the solid fabric begins beneath the ribbon lattice. Attach the skirt to the completed back bodice.
- Hemming: Hang the dress on a dress form for 24 hours to let the bias elements relax, then trim and hand-hem the silk lining and outer shell.
General Sewing Tips
- Use Silk Pins: Always use ultra-fine silk pins or microtex needles (Size 60/8 or 70/10) when working with delicate silk crepe or satin to prevent permanent snag holes.
- Calibrate Ribbon Tension: When weaving the back lattice, test the tension on a mannequin or body double. Ribbons must be tight enough to hold structural shape when worn, but flexible enough to allow the wearer to twist and breathe comfortably.
- Pressing Silk: Always press silk on a low-to-medium heat setting using a pressing cloth. Avoid steam directly on silk satin to prevent water-spotting and lustre distortion.
