The Tartan Asymmetric Midi Dress is a contemporary children's formalwear design that blends heritage plaid motifs with a striking, modern cut. It features an angled, overlapping bodice seam and an asymmetrical hemline skirt that introduces dynamic movement while keeping the traditional warmth of classic wool-blend tartan.
Designed for holiday celebrations, winter recitals, or upscale family gatherings, this statement piece offers a bold architectural shape engineered for a child's comfort and active movement.
Materials & Suitable Fabrics
Outer & Plaid Fabrics
- Lightweight Worsted Wool or Poly-Viscose Tartan: Offers excellent structure, sharp drape, and crisp pattern visibility without weighing down a child.
- Solid Matte Crepe or Wool-Blend Twill: Ideal for contrast panels, internal facings, or binding to offset the bold plaid lines.
Lining Fabrics
- Bemberg Rayon or Cotton Voile: Smooth, breathable lining ensuring comfortable, non-irritating contact against a child's skin.
Notions & Supplies
- All-purpose polyester thread matching the primary tartan colour-ways
- Lightweight fusible woven interfacing (for stabilising the asymmetrical neckline and zipper areas)
- Invisible zipper (12-inch) placed along the side seam
Standard Child Body Measurements (Size 6 Reference)
Use these standard measurements or substitute your specific child's dimensions. All values include standard ease for comfortable movement.
- Chest / Bust: 25 inches (63.5 cm)
- Waist: 23 inches (58.4 cm)
- High Hip: 26 inches (66.0 cm)
- HPS (High Point Shoulder) to Waist: 10.5 inches (26.7 cm)
- Finished Skirt Length (Waist to Short/Long Hem): 15 inches to 19 inches (38.1 cm to 48.3 cm)
- Total Finished Garment Length: 25.5 to 29.5 inches (64.8 to 74.9 cm)
Step-by-Step Pattern Drafting
Assumption: Drafted using a fitted bodice block modified with an asymmetric crossover line, paired with an A-line skirt block featuring a dropped diagonal hem. Add ease: +1.5 inches to the chest and +1 inch to the waist.
1. Front & Back Bodice
- Chest Width: Half-chest (25 inches / 2 = 12.5 inches) plus 0.75 inches ease = 13.25 inches per side.
- Asymmetric Front Line: Draw a diagonal slash line across the front bodice block from the right shoulder down to the left waist point to create the signature overlap.
- Bodice Length: High Point Shoulder to waist = 10.5 inches plus seam allowances.
2. Front & Back Skirt (Asymmetric Midi)
- Skirt Shape: A-line panel with an angled lower hemline dipping gracefully on one side.
- Skirt Length: Ranges from 15 inches on the shorter side to 19 inches on the extended side.
- Waist Width: Half-waist (23 inches / 2 = 11.5 inches) plus 0.5 inches ease.
3. Lining & Seam Allowances
- Linings: Duplicate bodice pieces in cotton voile lining.
- Seam Allowances:
- Neckline & Armholes: 3/8 inch (1 cm)
- Side & Shoulder Seams: 5/8 inch (1.5 cm)
- Waist Seam: 1/2 inch (1.3 cm)
- Hem Allowance: 1 inch (2.5 cm) double-folded for smooth curved hems.
Construction Instructions
Step 1: Interface and Prepare Pieces
- Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the asymmetric neckline facings and side zipper reinforcement zones.
Step 2: Assemble the Bodice
- Join the front and back bodice pieces at the shoulder seams and left side seam, pressing open all seams.
- Attach the facing along the asymmetric neckline, understitch, and press flat.
Step 3: Construct the Asymmetric Skirt
- Sew the skirt front and back panels together at the side seams, leaving the left side seam open for zipper insertion.
- Press the angled bottom hem edge under by 1/2 inch twice and topstitch cleanly.
Step 4: Join Bodice and Skirt
- Pin the completed skirt to the lower waist edge of the bodice, carefully matching side seams and centre points.
- Stitch the waist seam using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, then install the invisible zipper down the left side seam.
Step 5: Final Pressing and Finishing
- Trim any stray threads and press the garment thoroughly with a warm iron and pressing cloth, taking care to preserve the sharp lines of the asymmetric cuts.
Expert Sewing Tips
- Match Plaid Lines at Angles: Because the bodice and skirt feature asymmetric lines, take extra care to align plaid horizontal stripes across the diagonal seams for a clean, couture finish.
- Bias-Cut Hem Stability: The angled portion of an asymmetric hem often cuts across the grain. Apply lightweight fusible stay-tape along curved hem edges before folding to prevent stretching or warping.
- Needle Selection: Use a Sharp Needle (Size 80/12) for piercing tightly woven wool-blend tartan fabrics smoothly without puckering.
