The long-sleeve velvet mini dress is a staple of cold-weather glamour. It balances the modest coverage of long sleeves with a playful, leg-baring hemline. Because velvet has a dense pile and a distinct "nap," it requires specific handling to ensure the garment looks rich and professional rather than DIY.
Materials and Fabrics
Velvet is a "with nap" fabric, meaning the fibres lay in one direction.
1. Primary Fabric
- Silk/Rayon Velvet: The gold standard. It has a fluid drape and a luminous sheen.
- Cotton Velvet (Velveteen): Stiffer and more matte; better for structured, "mod" style minis.
- Stretch Velvet (Velour): Contains spandex. If using this, you must adjust your pattern for negative ease (making it smaller than the body).
2. Lining and Notions
- Stretch Satin or Habotai: Smooth lining prevents the velvet from "creeping" up your tights.
- Interfacing: Use a lightweight, sew-in interfacing for the neckline (heat can ruin velvet pile).
- Zipper: A 50cm invisible zipper.
- Thread: High-quality polyester thread.
Required Body Measurements
- Bust, Waist, and Hips: Standard circumference measurements.
- Shoulder to Waist: For bodice length.
- Waist to Desired Hem: Usually 40–45 cm for a mini length.
- Sleeve Length: From shoulder point to wrist.
- Bicep and Wrist: To ensure the sleeve isn't too tight.
Pattern Drafting Guide
1. Front and Back Bodice
- The Block: Start with a basic bodice sloper with a waist dart.
- The Neckline: For a classic look, draft a high jewel neck or a deep V-neck.
- Adjusting for Velvet: If using non-stretch velvet, add 2 cm of "design ease" to the bust to allow for movement, as velvet can feel restrictive.
2. The Sleeves
- Drafting: Use a one-piece sleeve block. Ensure the "sleeve cap" (the top curve) matches the total measurement of your front and back armholes.
- Taper: Gradually narrow the pattern from the bicep down to the wrist for a sleek fit.
3. Front and Back Skirt
- The Shape: A slight A-line or a pencil-cut skirt works best.
- Drafting: Extend the bodice waistline down to the hip line, then continue to your desired mini length.
4. Lining and Seam Allowances
- Lining: Draft exactly like the main pieces, but subtract 2 cm from the sleeve and skirt hems to prevent the lining from showing.
- Seam Allowances: Add 1.5 cm for side seams and 3 cm for the hem.
Step-by-Step Construction
1. The Golden Rule of Cutting
- Nap Direction: Lay all pattern pieces so the tops point in the same direction. If you flip one, that piece will look a different colour when the light hits it.
- Single Layer: Cut velvet in a single layer (not on the fold) to prevent the fabric from sliding and causing crooked lines.
2. Sewing the Bodice
- Sew the darts first.
- Tip: Pin generously within the seam allowance, as velvet layers like to "walk" or slide against each other.
3. Inserting Sleeves
- Use two rows of basting stitches at the sleeve cap to "ease" the sleeve into the armhole. Slow down here to avoid puckering the thick fabric.
4. The Zipper
- Baste the invisible zipper by hand first. Velvet is unforgiving with seam rippers; you want to get the zipper right the first time.
General Sewing Tips for Velvet
- The "Velvet Board" or Towel: Never press velvet directly on a flat ironing board; it will crush the pile. Place a thick, fluffy towel on the board and press the velvet face-down into it.
- Walking Foot: If you have one, use a walking foot on your sewing machine. It feeds the top and bottom layers equally, preventing the "sliding" velvet is famous for.
- Needle Choice: Use a Universal or Stretch needle (size 80/12).
- Finishing: Use a "catch stitch" (a hand-sewn hem) for the bottom. Machine-sewing a velvet hem often results in an ugly, visible line.
