The combination of a silk slip dress and a cozy cardigan is a timeless fashion staple, blending the "boudoir" elegance of the 90s with modern layering. Drafting and sewing this outfit requires a delicate touch, as silk can be slippery and knits require specific handling.
1. Fabric Selection
Choosing the right weight and drape is essential for that "liquid" look characteristic of a slip dress.
For the Slip Dress
- Silk Satin/Charmeuse: The gold standard. High shine, beautiful drape, but very slippery.
- Silk Crepe de Chine: A more matte finish with a slight texture. Easier to sew than satin.
- Rayon/Viscose Sateen: A high-quality synthetic alternative that mimics silk's drape at a lower price point.
- Lining: Use a lightweight silk habotai or the same self-fabric for a luxurious finish.
For the Cardigan
- Fine Gauge Knit: For a sleek, professional look.
- Mohair or Chunky Wool: To create a "heavy vs. light" texture contrast.
- Ribbed Jersey: For a casual, everyday feel.
2. Necessary Body Measurements
Before drafting, record the following measurements (measure snugly but not tightly):
Measurement | Description |
Bust | Fullest part of the chest. |
Waist | Narrowest part of the torso. |
Hips | Fullest part of the seat (usually 20cm below waist). |
Distance between the two nipples. | |
From shoulder/neck point to natural waist. | |
Desired Length | From waist to where you want the hem to fall. |
3. Pattern Drafting Guide
A classic slip dress is most flattering when cut on the bias (the 45-degree grainline), which allows the woven fabric to stretch and contour to the body.
Front and Back Bodice (Integrated)
Since most slip dresses are one continuous piece or have a simple waist seam, we will draft a basic "V-neck" or "Scoop" block.
- The Box: Draw a rectangle. Width = (Bust / 4) + 1.5 cm ease. Length = Total desired length.
- Neckline: From the top corner, measure down 12–18cm for the V-depth and 10cm across for width. Connect with a slight curve.
- Armhole: Measure 18–20cm down the side from the top. Curve inward slightly.
- Waist Shaping: At the waist level, move the side seam inward by 1.5–2cm to create a slight "hourglass" silhouette.
Skirt Section
- The Flare: From the hip line down to the hem, angle the side seam outward by 5–10cm. This creates the "A-line" movement.
- Hem Curve: To prevent the sides from sagging (common in bias cuts), raise the side-seam hem by 1.5cm and curve it back to the centre.
Lining
The lining pattern is identical to the bodice but usually ends at the hip or 2cm shorter than the main dress hem.
4. Seam Allowances and Cutting
- Seams: Add 1.5cm for French seams (best for silk).
- Neckline/Armholes: Add 1cm if using a facing or rolled hem.
- Hem: Add 2cm for a narrow rolled hem.
- Important: When cutting, ensure the grainline arrow on your pattern is exactly 45 degrees to the fabric's selvage.
5. Construction Steps
Step 1: Stabilise
Silk stretches easily. Stay-stitch the neckline and armholes immediately after cutting to prevent them from growing.
Step 2: The Bodice Seams
Use French Seams for a professional, "couture" internal finish.
- Pin fabric wrong sides together.
- Stitch at 0.5cm. Trim the raw edge to 0.3cm.
- Press open, then fold right sides together.
- Stitch at 1cm, enclosing the raw edge completely.
Step 3: Straps
Create "spaghetti straps" by sewing a long tube of fabric (2.5cm wide), trimming the allowance, and turning it right-side out using a loop turner. Attach them at the front and back bodice peaks.
Step 4: Lining and Facing
If using a full lining, sew it exactly like the main dress. Place the lining and dress right sides together at the neckline, stitch, and flip inside. Topstitch the lining to the seam allowance (understitching) to keep it from rolling out.
Step 5: Hemming
Crucial: Hang the dress on a mannequin or hanger for 24 hours before hemming. Bias-cut fabric will "drop." After 24 hours, trim the uneven hem and finish with a narrow rolled hem.
6. General Sewing Tips for Silk
- Microtex Needles: Use a brand new 60/8 or 70/10 Microtex needle to avoid snags.
- Silk Pins: Use extra-fine glass head pins; standard pins will leave visible holes.
- Walking Foot: If your machine is "eating" the fabric, a walking foot helps feed the slippery layers evenly.
- Tissue Paper: If the silk is sliding too much, sew with a layer of tissue paper underneath and tear it away after.
