Linen Trench Dress

A Linen Trench Dress is a sophisticated fusion of the classic trench coat’s utilitarian details and the effortless elegance of a summer dress. It is typically characterised by a double-breasted front, notched lapels, storm flaps, and a belted waist.

1. Suitable Fabrics

While linen is the star, the weight and blend change the garment's "vibe":

• 100% Mid-weight Linen: Best for a structured, crisp look. It wrinkles beautifully, which is part of the charm.
• Linen-Cotton Blend: Reduces wrinkling and provides a bit more softness.
• Linen-Viscose/Rayon Blend: Offers a fluid drape, perfect if you want the dress to feel more "flowy" than "boxy."
• Lining: Lightweight cotton voile, habotai silk, or a breathable rayon bemberg. Avoid polyester linings as they negate the breathability of linen.

2. Required Body Measurements

To draft an accurate pattern, measure over your undergarments:

1. Bust: Fullest part of the chest.
2. Waist: Narrowest part of the torso.
3. Hips: Fullest part (usually 20cm below the waist).
4. Shoulder Width: From shoulder point to shoulder point.
5. Nape to Waist: Length from the bone at the back of the neck to the waist.
6. Waist to Desired Hem: Total length of the skirt portion.
7. Armscye Depth: Distance from shoulder to underarm.

3. Pattern Drafting (Step-by-Step)

A. The Bodice (Front & Back)

Start with a basic bodice block and modify it for the "Trench" style.

• The Back: Use your standard back block. Add a Storm Flap (a separate piece) that sits over the shoulders and ends mid-back.
• The Front: 1. Double-Breasted Extension: Add 6–10cm beyond the Center Front (CF) line for the overlap.
  2. The Lapel: Extend the neckline to create the "revere" or notched collar.
  3. Darts: Use waist darts for a tailored look, or omit them for a "shacket" style.

B. The Skirt (Front & Back)

The trench dress usually features an A-line or Straight skirt.

• Drafting: Match the skirt waist width to the bodice waist width.
• Overlap: Ensure the front skirt has the same 6–10cm extension as the bodice so the buttons line up all the way down.
• Pockets: Draft oversized welt pockets or patch pockets—a signature trench detail.

C. Seam Allowances & Lining

• General Seams: Add 1.5cm (5/8") for side seams and shoulders.
• Neckline & Armholes: Add 1cm if using a lining.
• Hem: Add 4cm for a substantial, high-quality finish.
• Lining: Cut the lining pieces using the same pattern as the main fabric, but shorten the hem by 2cm and reduce the front facing width.

4. Sewing Instructions & Method

Step 1: Preparation

• Pre-wash your linen. Linen shrinks significantly; skip this and your dress won't fit after the first wash.
• Interface: Apply fusible interfacing to the collar, lapels, and front facings to provide structure.

Step 2: Bodice Construction

1. Sew darts in the front and back bodice.
2. Attach the Storm Flaps to the shoulders of the back/front pieces.
3. Sew shoulder seams, joining front and back.
4. The Collar: Construct the notched collar separately and sandwich it between the neckline and the facing/lining.

Step 3: Skirt & Assembly

1. Attach the front skirt to the front bodice; repeat for the back.
2. Sew the side seams.
3. Sleeves (Optional): If adding sleeves, sew the underarm seam and set them into the armscye. Trench dresses also look great sleeveless with a "storm flap" overhanging the shoulder.

Step 4: Finishing

1. The Belt: Create a long fabric tube, turn it right side out, and topstitch. Add belt loops at the waistline.
2. Buttonholes: Mark and sew buttonholes on the right-hand side (wearer's right).
3. Hemming: Fold the hem twice and topstitch or blind-stitch.

5. General Sewing Tips

• Needle Choice: Use a 80/12 or 90/14 Universal needle.
• The "Linen Sray": Linen frays easily. Finish every seam with a serger (overlocker) or use French Seams for a luxury interior finish.
• Pressing is Everything: Press every seam as you sew. Use steam and a "clapper" (a piece of wood) to get those lapel edges crisp.
• Topstitching: Use a slightly longer stitch length (3.0mm to 3.5mm) for the decorative topstitching on the lapels and belt to give it that "trench" look.