The Kimono Sleeve Dress is a masterclass in elegant simplicity. Defined by sleeves that are cut as one piece with the bodice (rather than being sewn into a separate armhole), this silhouette offers a relaxed fit, a beautiful drape, and a seamless look over the shoulders.
1. Fabrics and Materials
Fabric Selection
Because the sleeve and bodice are integrated, the "drape" of the fabric determines the final look:
- For Elegance: Silk crepe de chine, rayon/viscose, or washed satin. These flow with the body and prevent the underarm area from looking bulky.
- For Structure: Lightweight linen or cotton lawn. These will create a more "architectural" or "boxy" T-shape.
- For Comfort: Bamboo or soy jersey (knits).
Essential Notions
- Interfacing: Lightweight fusible (for the neckline facing).
- Zipper: An 18-inch invisible zipper for the centre back.
- Stay Tape: To prevent the diagonal shoulder/sleeve seam from stretching.
2. Required Body Measurements
Measurement | Description |
Bust | Fullest part of the chest. |
Waist | Natural narrowest part of the torso. |
Hips | Widest part around the seat. |
Shoulder to Waist | Vertical length from the neck-shoulder point to the waist. |
Desired Sleeve Length | From the neck-shoulder point down the arm to the desired edge. |
Wrist/Arm Opening | Circumference of the opening where the sleeve ends. |
Full Length | From the shoulder to the desired hemline. |
3. Pattern Drafting (Step-by-Step)
A. The Front & Back Bodice (Integrated Sleeve)
The front and back are drafted similarly, with the back neckline usually being higher.
- The Box: Draw a rectangle. Width = frac{1}{4} \ { Bust} + 3 {cm (ease)}. Height = Shoulder to Waist.
- The Sleeve Extension: From the top corner, extend a horizontal line outward equal to your Sleeve Length.
- The Sleeve Depth: From the end of that line, drop a vertical line equal to frac{1}{2} the Arm Opening.
- The Underarm Curve: This is the most important part. Connect the bottom of the arm opening to the side of the bodice with a wide, gentle curve (the "gusset" area).
- Calculation: The curve should start roughly 5–8cm below the chest line to allow for arm movement.
- The Neckline:
- Front: Mark a point 8cm down and 8cm across from the top inner corner for a standard scoop.
- Back: Mark a point 3cm down and 8cm across for the back neck.
B. The Skirt (Front & Back)
- A-Line Shape: Draw a rectangle. Width = frac {1}{4} \ { Hips} + 4 {cm}. Height = Desired Skirt Length.
- Waist Shaping: Angle the top inward so the width matches the bottom of your bodice.
- The Flare: Add 5–10cm of width to the bottom hem corner for movement.
4. Lining and Seam Allowances
- Seam Allowance (SA): Add 1.5cm (5/8") to all seams.
- Neckline: Add 1cm if using a facing.
- Hem: Add 3cm for a clean-finished hem.
- Lining: Kimono dresses are rarely fully lined due to the underarm bulk. Instead, use Facings for the neckline and arm openings to keep the edges crisp.
5. Construction Method
- Stay-stitching: Sew a line of long stitches within the SA of the neckline and the underarm curves to prevent stretching.
- Shoulder/Sleeve Seam: Place Front and Back RST. Sew the long continuous seam from the neckline, over the shoulder, all the way to the end of the sleeve. Press open.
- The Underarm/Side Seam: Sew from the sleeve opening, through the curve, and down the side of the bodice.
- Skirt Assembly: Sew the skirt side seams.
- Joining: Sew the bodice to the skirt at the waistline.
- Finishing:
- Install the invisible zipper in the centre back.
- Apply the neckline facing.
- Hem the sleeves and the skirt.
6. General Sewing Instructions and Tips
Handling the Underarm Curve
Crucial Step: Once you sew the underarm curve, you must clip the seam allowance. Use sharp scissors to snip small "V" shapes into the seam allowance along the curve. This allows the fabric to spread and lay flat when turned right-side out. If you don't clip it, the underarm will pucker and feel tight.
- Pressing the "Long" Seam: Since the shoulder and sleeve are one seam, use a tailor's ham or a rolled-up towel to press the shoulder area so it maintains a natural body curve.
- Fabric Direction: Be careful if using prints! In a kimono sleeve, the grainline on the sleeve runs horizontally or diagonally, which can make some patterns (like stripes) look very different on the arms than on the body.
- Ease: If using a non-stretch fabric, ensure you have at least 5cm (2") of total ease at the bust, or you won't be able to lift your arms comfortably.
