Brocade Coat Dress

A Brocade Coat Dress is a masterclass in structure and luxury. Unlike the fluid silk slip dress, a coat dress requires stability, sharp tailoring, and careful handling of the heavy, woven metallic threads characteristic of brocade.

1. Fabric and Support Materials

• Main Fabric: Heavyweight Metallic Brocade. Look for one with a firm "hand" to support the double-breasted structure.
• Lining: Silk or Polyester Satin/Twill. You need something slippery to allow the coat to slide over layers, but durable enough for a structured garment.
• Interfacing: Mid-weight fusible or sew-in interfacing. This is critical for the collar, lapels, and double-breasted front panels.
• Notions: 4–6 large decorative "master" buttons, 1–2 flat "jigger" buttons (for the inside closure), and optional shoulder pads for a sharper silhouette.

2. Body Measurements

Because this is a coat-style dress, measurements should be taken while wearing the undergarments or light layers you plan to wear beneath it.

Measurement	Description
Bust	Fullest part of the chest.
Waist	Natural waistline (the pivot point of the dress).
Hips	Fullest part (approx. 20cm below waist).
Shoulder Width	From shoulder bone to shoulder bone.
Sleeve Length	From shoulder bone to wrist (arm slightly bent).
Nape to Waist	From the base of the neck to the natural waist.
Full Length	From the nape of the neck to the desired hem.

3. Pattern Drafting Guide

A double-breasted coat dress uses a tailored bodice block with added "wrap" for the overlap.

Front Bodice (The Double-Breasted Overlap)

1. The Base: Start with a standard fitted bodice block with a waist dart and a bust dart.
2. The Overlap: From the Center Front (CF) line, extend the pattern horizontally by 7cm to 10cm. This creates the double-breasted "wrap."
3. The Lapel/Neckline: Determine where you want the "break point" (where the coat begins to open). From that point on the CF, draw a diagonal line upward toward the shoulder to create your lapel shape.
4. Facings: Trace the front edge and lapel (about 8cm wide) to create a separate Front Facing piece.

Back Bodice

1. Shaping: Use a standard back block with a centre back seam. A centre back seam is preferred for coat dresses to allow for "swayback" adjustments and a more contoured fit.
2. Darts: Include waist darts to ensure the dress cinches elegantly at the small of the back.

The Skirt (Front and Back)

1. Style: A Slight A-Line or Tulip shape works best for brocade to manage the fabric's stiffness.
2. Alignment: The skirt front must include the same 7–10cm overlap extension as the bodice so the buttons align all the way down.
3. Vents: For a knee-length or longer dress, add a walking vent at the centre back seam.

Lining and Seam Allowances

• Lining: Draft using the same pieces, but subtract the width of the front facings. Add a 2cm "ease pleat" at the centre back of the lining to prevent the coat from feeling tight across the shoulders.
• Seam Allowances: Add 1.5cm for all seams. Add 4cm for the hem and sleeve cuffs to give the heavy fabric weight.

4. Instruction and Method

Step 1: Interfacing (The Foundation)

Brocade can fray and lose shape. Fuse interfacing to the entire Front Facing, the Collar, and the Cuffs. It is also wise to fuse a 2cm strip along the armholes and the break-line of the lapel to prevent stretching.

Step 2: Darts and Bodice Assembly

1. Sew all bust and waist darts on the main fabric and lining.
2. Join the shoulder seams and side seams of the main fabric. Press seams open using a heavy iron and a press cloth.
3. Assemble the lining separately, leaving an 20cm opening in one sleeve seam for turning the garment later (if bagging out).

Step 3: The Collar and Lapels

1. Sew the under-collar to the neckline.
2. Pin the front facings (and top collar) to the dress, right sides together.
3. Stitch down the front edge, around the lapels, and across the collar.
4. Grade the seams (trim one layer shorter than the other) to reduce bulk, clip the curves, and turn right-side out.

Step 4: Sleeves

Set in the sleeves. Brocade holds a "cap" shape very well, so ensure your ease-stitching is even to avoid puckers at the shoulder head.

Step 5: Finishing the Lining

"Bagging out" the lining is the most professional method. Stitch the lining to the facings and hem, then pull the entire dress through the hole in the sleeve. Hand-stitch the sleeve hole closed.

Step 6: Buttonholes

Because brocade is thick and metallic, bound buttonholes (using fabric strips) often look more high-end than machine-stitched ones, which can get "chewed" by the metallic threads.

5. General Sewing Tips for Brocade

• Finish Every Edge: Brocade frays aggressively. If you aren't lining the garment immediately, serge or zigzag every raw edge as soon as it is cut.
• Use a Press Cloth: The metallic threads (Lurex) in brocade can melt if they touch a hot iron directly. Always use a silk or cotton press cloth.
• Needle Choice: Use a Topstitching needle or a 90/14 Sharp. The larger eye helps the metallic threads pass through without shredding.
• Directional Cutting: Brocade often has a "nap" or a directional pattern. Ensure all your pattern pieces are facing the same direction before cutting.