Draped Tunic Top

A draped tunic top is characterised by its fluidity, loose fit, and often features asymmetrical or soft folds of fabric. Since it's a simple, flowing garment, the pattern drafting and construction are less complex than a fitted jacket.

👚 Draped Tunic Top Guide

1. Suitable Fabrics

The key to a beautiful drape is choosing lightweight, soft fabrics with good fluidity.

• Ideal Fabrics:
• Jersey Knit: Offers excellent drape, comfort, and elasticity.
• Rayon (Viscose): Very fluid, lightweight, and soft—perfect for a luxurious drape.
• Silk or Silk Blends (e.g., Silk Crêpe de Chine, Georgette): Offers the most elegant and expensive drape.
• Lightweight Cotton Lawn or Voile: Less drape than knits/rayon, but suitable for a slightly structured, yet flowing, tunic.
• Fabric Considerations:
• Weight: Must be light to medium-light. Heavy fabrics will hang stiffly rather than drape.
• Hand: Should be soft for comfort.
• Drape: The fabric should fall easily into soft folds when held up.

2. Body Measurements

Since the tunic is loose, you don't need highly precise measurements for a tight fit, but these are crucial for length and overall proportion:

• Chest/Bust: Around the fullest part.
• Hip: Around the fullest part.
• Shoulder Width: Tip of shoulder to tip of shoulder.
• Desired Tunic Length: From the highest point of the shoulder, down to where you want the hem to fall (typically mid-thigh or knee).
• Sleeve Length: Shoulder tip to desired sleeve hem (e.g., short, three-quarter, or long).
• Ease: Plan for significant positive ease (4" to 8" or 10 cm to 20 cm) at the bust/hip for a comfortable, draped style.

3. Pattern Drafting (Simplified Method for Drape)

A simple draped tunic often omits traditional darts and uses a straight, wide block for maximum flow. This method is based on modifying a simple, dart-less bodice block.

Front Bodice/Skirt (Single Piece)

1. Start with Basic Block: Use a simple front bodice block (or draft a basic rectangle based on your largest circumference measurement + ease, divided by two).
2. Determine Width: The width should be (Bust Measurement / 4) + Ease (e.g., 2" - 4" / 5cm - 10cm).
3. Determine Length: Extend the block down to your Desired Tunic Length. This eliminates the need for a separate "skirt" piece.
4. Draft Neckline: Draw the desired neckline (e.g., rounded, boat neck). For a draped element like a cowl, you would slash and spread the neckline edge, adding several inches of width/depth to create the cowl effect.
5. Shoulder and Armhole: The armhole should be simple and open. The shoulder line can be extended to create a dropped shoulder effect, which aids in a relaxed drape.
6. Side Seam: Draw a straight line from the armhole to the hem or introduce a very slight, gradual A-line flare starting at the hip.

Back Bodice/Skirt (Single Piece)

1. Use the exact same width and length as the Front piece to ensure the side seams match.
2. Draft Neckline: Draw a slightly higher, shallower neckline than the front for stability.
3. Shoulder and Armhole: Match these exactly to the front piece.

Sleeves

1. Draft a simple sleeve piece that corresponds to the size of the armhole (or a rectangular piece for a very simple, wide sleeve).
2. The hem of the sleeve can be cut on the bias for an extra soft drape.

4. Lining and Seam Allowances

• Lining: Generally not required unless the main fabric is sheer. If lining is needed, trace the main pattern pieces exactly. The hemline of the lining should be 2" to 3" shorter than the main fabric.
• Seam Allowances (S.A.):
• All Construction Seams (Shoulder, Side, Sleeves): 1/2" (1.2 cm) or 5/8" (1.5 cm).
• Hems (Neck, Sleeve, Bottom): 1/2" (1.2 cm) to 1" (2.5 cm), depending on the fabric and desired finish.

5. Instruction and Method

1. Preparation: Cut all fabric pieces. Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter for delicate fabrics. Transfer all notches and markings.
2. Stabilise: If the neckline is cut on the bias (common for drape), stabilise the shoulder seams and neckline edges with a thin strip of fusible interfacing or clear elastic to prevent stretching.
3. Shoulder Seams: Sew the front and back shoulder seams together. Press open or to the back.
4. Side Seams & Sleeves: Sew the sleeve underarm seam and the main garment side seams in one continuous seam, known as the "French seam method" for sheer or delicate fabrics, or a simple straight stitch finished with an overlock/serger.
5. Set Sleeves (If not a single seam): Set the sleeves into the armholes.
6. Finish Neckline: Apply a simple facing, a self-fabric binding, or a neckband.
7. Hemming: Finish the sleeve and bottom hems. For fluid fabrics, a rolled hem (done by hand or machine) or a narrow, double-folded hem works best to maintain the drape.

6. General Sewing Instructions and Tips

• Needle: Use a Ballpoint/Jersey Needle for knit fabrics or a Sharp/Microtex Needle (size 60/8 or 70/10) for delicate woven (rayon, silk) to avoid snags.
• Stitch: For knits, use a narrow zig-zag stitch or a stretch stitch to maintain elasticity. For woven, use a regular straight stitch.
• Thread: Use quality polyester thread as it has a slight give and is strong.
• Handling: Do not pull or stretch the fabric while sewing, especially along the bias edges. Let the feed dogs move the fabric naturally.
• Pressing: Use a low heat setting and a pressing cloth for delicate synthetics (rayon, polyester) or silk. Pressing is vital for crisp seams but use light pressure to avoid flattening the texture of the drape.