Bohemian Paisley Caftan Design

 

Bohemian Paisley Caftan Design and Construction Guide

This guide details the creation of a flowing caftan, which is drafted as a single garment piece (combining the bodice and skirt) for both the front and back.

I. Caftan Concept & Materials

Style Description

A caftan is a long, loose garment with full sleeves that are often integrated into the side seams (known as a kimono or batwing sleeve). The Bohemian style emphasises flow, comfort, and rich, often printed, textiles like Paisley.

Suitable Fabrics (Focus on Drape and Print)

The fabric choice is crucial to achieve the signature drape of a caftan. Avoid stiff cottons.

1. Rayon Challis or Viscose: The most ideal choices. They have a luxurious hand, beautiful fluid drape, and excellent colour absorption for vivid paisley prints.
2. Silk Crepe or Silk Habotai: For a high-end, elegant look. Requires careful handling as it is very slippery.
3. Lightweight Cotton Voile or Lawn: A good breathable choice for summer, offering slightly more structure than rayon but still draping well.
4. Double Gauze: Extremely soft and breathable, creating a slightly more casual, textured look.

Suitable Colors

The Bohemian aesthetic often pairs deep, rich colours with vibrant accents:

• Deep Jewels: Indigo, Dark Turquoise, Emerald Green, and Burgundy.
• Earth Tones: Terracotta, Ochre Yellow, Rust, and Deep Plum.
• Print Requirement: The fabric should feature a Paisley print, either large-scale and centralised or small and repeating.

II. Body Measurements Required

Due to the extreme ease and loose fit, only a few key measurements are needed:

1. Desired Caftan Length: From the highest point of the shoulder (near the neck) down to the desired hem (typically ankle or floor length).
2. Shoulder to Wrist/Elbow: Length needed to determine the finished sleeve length.
3. Neck Circumference: For drafting the neckline (simple V-neck or split placket).
4. Max Width/Ease: Determine the widest point of the body (usually the hip/bust) and add significant ease (e.g.,  () or more) to achieve the full, flowing look. This determines the overall width of the pattern piece.

III. Pattern Drafting Instructions (Single Piece Construction)

Since a caftan is unstructured, there are no separate bodice or skirt pieces; the front and back are drafted as one large, flowing panel.

A. Front Caftan Piece Drafting

1. Determine Dimensions:
• Length: Desired Caftan Length .
• Width: .
2. Draft the Base: Draw a large rectangle using the calculated  and . This rectangle represents half of the caftan, to be cut on the fold.
3. Neckline (Center Front):
• Mark the Center Front (CF) as "Cut on Fold."
• From the top left corner (CF/Shoulder join), draft the neckline. A V-neck or a shallow scoop neck is typical.
• Option: For a classic caftan split, draft a narrow placket opening (e.g.,  () long) along the CF.
4. Shoulder: Draw the shoulder seam, extending from the neckline to the corner of the rectangle.
5. Kimono Sleeve: The side edge of the rectangle from the shoulder corner down becomes the sleeve edge and side seam.
• From the top right corner, measure down the desired sleeve length (e.g.,  () for a 3/4 sleeve) and mark the cuff point.
• From the cuff point, draw a line inward toward the hip line. This angle determines the flow and fit of the caftan. Keep this angle shallow (a gentle slope) for maximum drape.
6. Hem: The bottom edge is the finished hem.

B. Back Caftan Piece Drafting

1. Duplicate: The back piece uses the exact same outline as the front piece, including the sleeve and side seam angles.
2. Back Neckline: The only difference is the neckline. The back neck should be higher and simpler (a slight scoop, e.g.,  () deep) for better coverage.
3. Marking: Mark the Center Back (CB) as "Cut on Fold."

C. Lining

Caftans are often unlined, but for sheer fabrics, a partial or full lining can be drafted:

• Lining Pieces: Use the exact same front and back pattern pieces.
• Modification: If using a full lining, shorten the lining piece by  () from the hem.

D. Seam Allowances

MANDATORY: Add  () seam allowance to all edges of all pattern pieces (main fabric and lining/facing pieces).

IV. Construction and Sewing Method

Preparation (Handling Delicate Fabrics)

1. Cutting: Lay the fabric flat on a cutting mat or floor. Pin heavily or use pattern weights, as these fabrics shift easily. Cut all pieces on the fold where indicated.
2. Stabilisation: If the neckline will be finished with a facing, apply a very lightweight fusible interfacing to the facing pieces.

Sewing Steps

1. Assemble Shell:
• Place the Front and Back pieces right sides together.
• Sew the shoulder seams and the side seams (which include the sleeve seam). Stitch continuously from the cuff edge down to the hem.
2. Seam Finish (Critical): Since the caftan is often unlined and uses light fabric, French Seams are highly recommended. This encloses the raw edges beautifully:
• Sew the seam with wrong sides together (a  () allowance). Trim the allowance close.
• Turn the garment inside out (right sides together) and press the seam.
• Stitch the seam again using a  () allowance, enclosing the previous raw edge completely. Press the finished seam to one side.
3. Neckline Finish:
• Facing: If using a facing, stitch the facing to the neckline (right sides together). Trim the seam, clip the curves, and understitch. Turn the facing inside and press. Hand-tack the facing to the shoulder seams.
• Binding: Alternatively, finish the neckline with self-fabric bias binding.
4. Cuff Finish: Finish the sleeve cuff edges with a narrow double-fold hem or a faced finish.
5. Hem: Finish the bottom hem with a narrow rolled hem (by hand or machine) for maximum fluidity and drape.

V. General Sewing Instructions and Tips

• Needle Choice: Use a very fine, sharp needle (e.g., Microtex or Universal size 60/8) to avoid snags, especially with rayon and silk.
• Walking Foot: Using a walking foot on your machine can greatly help manage the slippery layers of fabric and prevent shifting while stitching long seams.
• Stay-stitching: Immediately after cutting the fabric, run a line of stitching (stay-stitching) just inside the seam allowance on all curved and bias edges (like the neckline) to prevent stretching before assembly.
• Embellishment: To enhance the Bohemian look, consider:
• Adding tassel trim or pom-pom trim to the sleeve cuffs and/or the hemline before hemming.
• Applying light, metallic embroidery around the neckline.
• Testing: Always test your stitching, thread, and hem method on a scrap piece of the main fabric before working on the garment itself.