Floral Eyelet A-Line

 

          A sleeveless A-line dress made from crisp floral eyelet fabric with a matching tie-belt.

I. Suitable Fabrics

For a crisp floral eyelet A-line dress, the fabric choice is key to getting the classic structured yet airy look. The term "eyelet" refers to the embroidered or perforated design, often found on a base fabric.

• Floral Eyelet: This is the ideal choice. It's typically a lightweight to medium-weight cotton or cotton blend. The fabric's natural crispness helps the A-line skirt hold its shape without being stiff, and the embroidered details add beautiful texture.
• Cotton Sateen: If you can't find a suitable eyelet, a cotton sateen is a great alternative. It has a slight sheen and a smooth finish, and it holds its shape well.
• Broadcloth or Poplin: These are crisp, tightly woven cotton fabrics. They are excellent for holding the A-line shape and are easy to sew. While they lack the embroidered detail, they can be a great base for a simple and elegant dress.
• Linen or Linen Blends: Linen has a lovely drape and a casual, natural feel. It works well for an A-line silhouette, but be aware that it wrinkles easily, which may not be the "crisp" look you're going for.

Fabrics to Avoid:

Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit, as they will not hold the A-line shape. Also, avoid very heavy fabrics like canvas, which would make the dress too bulky.

II. Body Measurements

Accurate measurements are the foundation for a well-fitting dress. It's best to have someone help you take these.

• Full Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
• Waist: Measure the narrowest part of your torso, usually just above your belly button.
• Back Waist Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of your neck down to your natural waistline.
• Desired Skirt Length: Measure from your natural waistline down to where you want the hem to fall.

III. Pattern Drafting (Step-by-Step)

This guide assumes you are starting with a basic bodice block or a sloper. If you don't have one, you can draft one from your measurements or find a basic pattern online.

A. Front and Back Bodice

1. Trace your Bodice Block: Trace your front and back bodice blocks onto pattern paper.
2. Create the Sleeveless Armhole: On both the front and back pieces, redraw the armhole curve to a more open, sleeveless shape. You may need to take in the shoulder seam slightly.
3. Shape the Neckline: Draft a simple, high neckline (like a jewel or boat neck) on both the front and back pieces.
4. Add Darts: Transfer any existing darts from your block or create new ones to ensure a close fit at the waist and bust.

B. Front and Back Skirt

1. Start with the Basic Skirt Block: Trace your basic skirt block (a rectangle or A-line) onto pattern paper. The length should be your desired skirt length.
2. Create the A-Line Flare: To create the A-line shape, use the "slash and spread" method.
• Draw several vertical lines on your skirt pattern, from the waist down to the hem.
• Cut along these lines, from the bottom hem up to the waist, but do not cut all the way through the waist seam. Leave a small hinge of paper.
• Gently pivot the cut pieces to spread them out at the hem. The more you spread, the fuller the A-line will be.
• Tape the pattern in place to a new piece of paper and re-draw the hemline as a smooth, continuous curve.

C. Lining and Seam Allowances

• Lining: You must use a full lining for an eyelet dress. This is crucial for modesty, to prevent the dress from being see-through, and to give it a clean finish. Draft a lining pattern by creating exact copies of your final bodice and skirt patterns.
• Tie-Belt: The belt is a simple rectangle. The width should be about 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) and the length should be long enough to tie a bow (e.g., 60 inches or 150 cm).
• Seam Allowances: Add a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance to all pattern pieces (bodice, skirt, and lining) along all edges that will be sewn. Add a 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) hem allowance to the bottom of the dress and the lining.

IV. Instructions and Method

1. Cut the Fabric: Cut all your pattern pieces from both the eyelet fabric and the lining fabric. Ensure your grain lines are straight.
2. Sew the Darts: On both the main bodice and the lining bodice, sew the bust and waist darts. Press them flat.
3. Sew the Main Dress: Pin the front and back main bodice pieces together at the side seams and the shoulder seams. Sew these seams. Repeat this for the main skirt pieces. Sew the bodice and skirt together at the waistline.
4. Sew the Lining: Repeat step 3 for the lining pieces.
5. Insert Zipper: On the main dress, insert an invisible or standard zipper into the centre back seam.
6. Attach the Lining: Place the main dress and the lining dress with right sides facing. Pin along the neckline, armholes, and the back zipper opening. Sew these seams.
7. Finish the Dress: Clip the curves and corners, and turn the dress right side out through the shoulder seam or a small opening at the bottom of the lining. Hand-stitch or machine-stitch the opening closed.
8. Create the Tie-Belt: Fold the belt fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew the long edge and one short end. Turn the belt right side out, press, and hand-stitch the remaining open end closed.
9. Hem: Hem the lining and the main dress separately. Since eyelet fabric doesn't fray, you can simply press the hem and sew it in place.

V. General Sewing Tips

• Needle and Thread: Use a sharp needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) to avoid snagging the delicate eyelet fabric.
• Pins: Use extra-fine or silk pins to avoid making permanent holes in the eyelet.
• Pressing: Use a press cloth and a low to medium heat setting to press the eyelet fabric. Do not stretch it while pressing.
• Test Stitch: Always sew a test seam on a scrap piece of fabric to check your machine settings.
• Patience: Working with eyelet can be slow due to the intricate pattern. Take your time to align your pieces carefully before sewing.