Strapless Floral Embroidered Gown

 

Strapless Floral Embroidered Maxi Gown

A strapless, fitted, and maxi-length gown with elegant floral embroidery is a show-stopping choice for any party. This guide will walk you through the essential elements, from fabric selection to pattern drafting and construction, ensuring a beautiful and well-fitting garment.

Suitable Fabrics for a Strapless Gown

For a strapless gown, especially one that is fitted and maxi-length, the fabric choice is crucial for both drape and support. Consider fabrics with some structure, but also a beautiful flow.

• Duchess Satin: Luxurious and structured, offering a smooth, elegant finish and good support. It holds its shape well.
• Mikado: A heavier silk blend with a subtle sheen, providing excellent structure and a crisp feel. Ideal for a more architectural silhouette.
• Brocade: Offers rich texture and can have beautiful woven patterns, adding to the elegance even before embroidery.
• Heavy Silk Crepe: Drapes beautifully and has a lovely hand, though it may require more internal structuring for the strapless design.
• Scuba Knit: Offers good stretch and recovery, providing a comfortable and well-fitted silhouette. It can be a good option for a more modern, form-fitting look.
• Taffeta: Crisp and rustles with movement, offering a dramatic silhouette.
• Underlay/Lining Fabrics: For the lining, consider smooth, breathable fabrics like silk habotai, china silk, or high-quality anti-static polyester lining.

Floral Embroidery and Materials

The floral embroidery is a key design element. The materials chosen will significantly impact the final look and feel.

• Embroidery Floss/Threads:
• Silk Embroidery Floss: For a luxurious sheen and a smooth, delicate feel.
• Rayon Embroidery Thread: Offers a beautiful lustre and vibrant colours.
• Cotton Embroidery Floss (DMC or Anchor): A versatile and widely available option for a more matte finish.
• Metallic Threads: To add sparkle and highlight specific floral elements.
• Embellishments:
• Seed Beads, Bugle Beads, Sequins: To add sparkle, texture, and dimension to the floral designs.
• Rhinestones or Crystals: For a more opulent and dazzling effect.
• Fabric Appliqués: Pre-made lace or embroidered motifs can be cut out and applied for a quicker, yet elegant, solution.
• Stabiliser: Essential for supporting the fabric during embroidery and preventing puckering or stretching. Choose a tear-away or wash-away stabiliser appropriate for your fabric and embroidery technique.

Body Measurements Required

Accurate body measurements are paramount for a well-fitting gown. Take these measurements over light clothing, without shoes.

• Bust: Around the fullest part of your bust.
• Under bust: Directly under your bust, where your bra band sits.
• Waist: The narrowest part of your torso.
• High Hip: Around your hip bones.
• Full Hip: Around the fullest part of your hips.
• Bust Point to Bust Point: Distance between the apex of your bust.
• Center Front Length (Under bust to Waist): From the centre front under your bust down to your waist.
• Center Back Length (Underarm to Waist): From the back, directly under your arm, down to your waist.
• Side Seam Length (Underarm to Waist): From your underarm to your waistline at the side.
• Waist to Floor (Front, Side, Back): Measure from your natural waistline down to the floor, ensuring you account for any shoes you plan to wear.
• Desired Skirt Length (from Waist): Your preferred finished length for the skirt.

Step-by-Step Pattern Drafting

This is a basic guide for a fitted bodice and a maxi A-line or slight mermaid skirt. It's recommended to create a toile (muslin) to test the fit before cutting your fashion fabric.

Tools Needed: Large paper (pattern paper or kraft paper), ruler, French curve, pencil, eraser, measuring tape, scissors.

I. Front Bodice Block

1. Draw a Base Rectangle:
• Width = (Bust measurement / 4) + 1" (for ease)
• Height = Center Front Length (Under bust to Waist) + 1" (for seam allowance at top and bottom)
2. Mark Bust Point (BP):
• From the top left corner, measure down your "Center Front Length (Under bust to Waist)" and mark.
• From this point, measure in (Bust Point to Bust Point / 2) and mark your BP.
3. Shape the Top Edge (Strapless Curve):
• From the top left corner, measure down about 1.5" for the front dip of the strapless line.
• Using a French curve, draw a gentle curve from this point up towards the top right corner, ensuring it clears the bust point. This is your top edge.
4. Side Seam:
• Measure down your "Side Seam Length (Underarm to Waist)" from the top right corner. Mark this point.
• Draw a vertical line from this point down to the bottom right corner of your rectangle.
5. Under bust Line:
• Draw a horizontal line from the BP to the side seam. This is your approximate under bust line.
6. Waistline: The bottom horizontal line of your initial rectangle.
7. Darting (Essential for Strapless Fit):
• Bust Dart:
• From the BP, draw a line diagonally down towards the side seam, ending about 1.5" from the side seam.
• Measure out from the BP along this line (typically 0.75" to 1" on each side for a total of 1.5" to 2" dart intake).
• Draw lines from the dart points back to the BP.
• Waist Dart (Optional, for more shaping):
• From the BP, draw a straight line down to the waistline.
• Measure out from this line at the waist (typically 0.5" to 0.75" on each side for a total of 1" to 1.5" dart intake).
• Draw lines from the dart points back towards the BP (but not necessarily to the BP itself, rather a point about 1-2" above the dart opening).
8. Blend and Smooth: Use your French curve to blend all lines smoothly.
9. Cut out your front bodice pattern piece.

II. Back Bodice Block

1. Draw a Base Rectangle:
• Width = (Bust measurement / 4) + 1" (for ease)
• Height = Center Back Length (Underarm to Waist) + 1" (for seam allowance)
2. Top Edge:
• From the top left corner (centre back), measure down about 0.5" to 1" for a slight dip at the back.
• Draw a gentle, almost straight line across to the top right corner (side seam). This is your top edge.
3. Side Seam:
• Measure down your "Side Seam Length (Underarm to Waist)" from the top right corner. Mark this point.
• Draw a vertical line from this point down to the bottom right corner of your rectangle.
4. Waistline: The bottom horizontal line of your initial rectangle.
5. Back Darts (Optional, for shaping):
• Find the halfway point between centre back and the side seam at the waistline.
• Measure up approximately 4-5 inches from this point.
• Measure out from the vertical line at the waist (typically 0.5" on each side for a total of 1" dart intake).
• Draw lines from these points up to the top dart point.
6. Center Back: This will likely be a straight vertical line. If you plan for a zipper, this will be your zipper seam.
7. Blend and Smooth.
8. Cut out your back bodice pattern piece.

III. Front Skirt Block (Maxi Length, Slight A-Line/Mermaid)

1. Draw a Vertical Line: This will be your centre front.
2. Mark Waist, High Hip, Full Hip, and Hem:
• From the top of your vertical line (waist), measure down your "Desired Skirt Length from Waist" and mark the hem.
• Mark your "High Hip" and "Full Hip" measurements down from the waist.
3. Horizontal Measurements:
• Waist: At the waistline, measure out (Waist measurement / 4) from the centre front line.
• High Hip: At the high hip line, measure out (High Hip measurement / 4) from the centre front line.
• Full Hip: At the full hip line, measure out (Full Hip measurement / 4) from the centre front line.
• Hem: For an A-line, measure out a desired width (e.g., 1.5 - 2 times your full hip measurement / 4). For a subtle mermaid, you would curve in below the full hip before flaring out.
4. Connect the Dots:
• Draw a curve from the waist point, through the high hip point, and then the full hip point.
• From the full hip point, gently flare out to the hem point.
5. Blend and Smooth.
6. Cut out your front skirt pattern piece.

IV. Back Skirt Block

1. Draw a Vertical Line: This will be your centre back (where your zipper will go).
2. Mark Waist, High Hip, Full Hip, and Hem: Same as the front skirt.
3. Horizontal Measurements:
• Waist: At the waistline, measure out (Waist measurement / 4) from the centre back line.
• High Hip: At the high hip line, measure out (High Hip measurement / 4) from the centre back line.
• Full Hip: At the full hip line, measure out (Full Hip measurement / 4) from the centre back line.
• Hem: Same as the front skirt.
4. Connect the Dots: Same as the front skirt.
5. Blend and Smooth.
6. Cut out your back skirt pattern piece.

V. Lining Patterns

Create identical patterns for the bodice and skirt lining. You may choose to remove the darts from the lining of the skirt if your main fabric is very forgiving, but for a structured gown, it's best to include them for a smoother inner finish.

VI. Seam Allowances

Standard seam allowances:

• 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) or 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) for all seams (side seams, centre back, waistline).
• 1 inch (2.54 cm) for the hem.
• 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) for the top edge of the strapless bodice.

Always mark your seam allowances clearly on your pattern pieces.

Instructions and Methods for Making the Gown

1. Preparation

• Pre-wash/Pre-shrink Fabrics: Especially if using natural fibres, to prevent shrinking after construction.
• Cut Fabric: Lay your pattern pieces on the fabric according to the grainline. Pin securely and cut accurately. Cut both fashion fabric and lining pieces. Remember to cut two of each bodice piece (main and lining) and two of each skirt piece (main and lining).
• Transfer Markings: Transfer all dart legs, notches, and other markings from your pattern to the fabric using tailor's chalk, fabric pens, or tailor's tacks.

2. Bodice Construction (Main Fabric)

• Sew Darts: Fold and stitch all darts on the front and back bodice pieces. Press darts towards the centre for the front and towards the centre back for the back.
• Sew Side Seams: Place front and back bodice pieces right sides together, align side seams, and stitch. Press seams open.
• Prepare for Boning (Optional but Recommended for Strapless): If using boning, create channels on the inside of the bodice at the dart lines and side seams. You can use specialised boning casing or create channels from bias tape.
• Insert Boning: Cut boning to the appropriate length (leaving a small gap at the top and bottom) and insert into channels. Cap the ends of the boning if necessary.

3. Bodice Lining Construction

• Repeat steps for bodice construction using the lining fabric. Do not insert boning into the lining.

4. Skirt Construction (Main Fabric)

• Sew Darts (if applicable): Stitch any darts on the front and back skirt pieces.
• Sew Side Seams: Place front and back skirt pieces right sides together, align side seams, and stitch. Press seams open.
• Center Back Seam: Stitch the centre back seam of the skirt from the hem up to the zipper opening. Backstitch securely at the top of the opening.

5. Skirt Lining Construction

• Repeat steps for skirt construction using the lining fabric.

6. Joining Bodice and Skirt (Main Fabric)

• Place the main fabric bodice right sides together with the main fabric skirt, aligning the waistline seams and side seams. Pin securely and stitch. Press seam open or towards the bodice.

7. Joining Bodice and Skirt (Lining)

• Repeat step for joining bodice and skirt using the lining fabric.

8. Attaching Lining to Gown

• Insert Lining: Place the completed lining inside the completed main gown, wrong sides together. Ensure all seams align perfectly.
• Top Edge of Bodice: With right sides together, pin the top edge of the main bodice to the top edge of the lining bodice. Stitch around the entire top edge. Clip curves, trim seam allowance, and understitch the lining to the seam allowance.
• Turn Out and Press: Turn the bodice right side out, pushing out the corners and curves. Press the top edge carefully, ensuring the lining is neatly tucked inside.
• Zipper Application: Install an invisible zipper into the centre back seam, going through both the main fabric and the lining. This creates a clean finish.
• Waistline Seam (Optional for stability): You can hand-tack the lining to the main fabric at the waistline seam to prevent it from shifting.
• Hemming the Lining: Hem the lining separately, usually about 1 inch shorter than the main gown hem, to prevent it from showing.

9. Hemming the Gown

• Try On: Try on the gown with the shoes you intend to wear. Have someone mark the desired hem length evenly around the garment.
• Hemming Method:
• Blind Hem: For an invisible finish, suitable for most fabrics.
• Rolled Hem: For very fine or sheer fabrics.
• Horsehair Braid Hem: For adding stiffness and flare to the hem, particularly useful for a fuller skirt.
• Press the hem neatly.

10. Floral Embroidery

• Placement: Carefully plan the placement of your floral embroidery. You can sketch it directly onto the fabric with a washable marker or use templates. Consider asymmetrical designs, or a concentrated cluster that trails down the skirt.
• Technique:
• Hand Embroidery: Offers the most control and a truly artisanal look. Use an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric taut.
• Machine Embroidery: If you have an embroidery machine, this can be a faster option for complex designs. Digitising your design will be necessary.
• Appliqué: Cut out floral motifs from lace or other embroidered fabric and hand-stitch or machine-stitch them onto the gown.
• Embellishment: Once the embroidery is complete, add beads, sequins, or crystals as desired.
• Finish: Remove any stabiliser carefully.

Tips for Success

• Toile (Muslin) is Your Best Friend: Always make a practice garment (toile) from inexpensive fabric (like muslin or an old sheet) before cutting into your fashion fabric. This allows you to test the fit, make adjustments to the pattern, and practice construction techniques without wasting expensive material.
• Accurate Measurements: Take your time with measurements. Even a small error can significantly impact the fit.
• Pressing is Key: Press seams as you go. This makes a huge difference in the professional appearance of your finished garment.
• Understitching: Understitch the lining to the seam allowance around the top of the bodice. This keeps the lining from rolling to the outside.
• Boning for Support: For a strapless gown, boning is highly recommended for structure and support. It prevents the bodice from collapsing or slipping. Spiral steel boning is more flexible and comfortable than plastic.
• Non-Slip Elastic (Optional): For extra security, you can sew a strip of non-slip silicone elastic along the inside top edge of the bodice lining.
• Invisible Zipper: An invisible zipper creates a much cleaner and more professional finish than a regular zipper for an elegant gown.
• Hand Stitching for Details: For delicate finishes like hemming the lining or securing the main hem, hand stitching can provide a superior, invisible result.
• Patience and Precision: Sewing a gown, especially one with intricate details like embroidery, requires patience. Take your time with each step, and strive for precision.
• Test Embroidery: Always test your embroidery design and techniques on a scrap piece of your fashion fabric before working on the actual gown.

By following these detailed steps and tips, you'll be well on your way to creating a stunning and perfectly fitted strapless floral embroidered maxi gown for your next special occasion.