Inspired Wedding Gown

 A Guide to Creating Inspired Wedding Gown

This guide outlines the process of creating a wedding gown with a fitted bodice, square neckline, and a full maxi-length skirt, inspired by the ornate style of the 16th century but with a contemporary, elegant finish. The design features intricate sequin embroidery and the structure of a modern gown.

1. Suitable Materials and Supplies

Fabrics

• Outer Fabric: A structured yet elegant fabric is essential to hold the shape of the bodice and skirt.
• Silk Duchess Satin: Provides a beautiful sheen and excellent body for a structured gown.
• Silk Mikado: A heavier, lustrous silk that holds pleats and gathers well.
• Brocade: A woven fabric with a raised floral or geometric design, offering a rich, historical feel.
• Lining Fabric: The lining should be soft and breathable against the skin.
• Silk Crepe: A soft, drapey fabric perfect for the skirt lining.
• Habotai Silk: Lightweight and smooth, ideal for lining both the bodice and skirt.
• Interfacing: Used to add structure and stability to specific areas, such as the bodice and waistline. A medium-weight fusible interfacing is recommended.

Sequin Embroidery and Materials

The embroidery is a key feature of this design.

• Sequins: A mix of flat and cupped sequins in various sizes and complementary metallic colours (e.g., silver, champagne, rose gold) to create dimension.
• Beads: Small seed beads or bugle beads to outline patterns and add texture.
• Thread: Invisible nylon thread or metallic embroidery thread that matches the sequins.
• Embroidery Hoop: Essential for keeping the fabric taut while you work on the intricate designs.

Other Notions

• Boning: Steel boning for the bodice to provide support and structure.
• Zipper: An invisible zipper for a seamless closure at the back.
• Hook-and-Eye Closures: For the top of the zipper.
• Thread: High-quality sewing thread that matches the fabric.

2. Body Measurement Guide

Accurate measurements are crucial for a well-fitting gown. Take these measurements over a well-fitting undergarment.

• Bust: Circumference around the fullest part of the bust.
• Waist: Circumference of the natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso.
• Hip: Circumference around the fullest part of the hips.
• Shoulder to Waist: Length from the base of the neck at the shoulder to the natural waist.
• Back Width: Measurement across the back from armhole to armhole.
• Shoulder Width: Measurement from the base of the neck to the shoulder point.
• Sleeve Length: From the shoulder point to the wrist.
• Skirt Length: From the natural waist to the floor, accounting for shoes. Add extra length for the train.

3. Step-by-Step Pattern Drafting

General Note on Drafting: Use your precise body measurements and a basic sloper pattern as a starting point. All patterns should be drafted on paper first.

Bodice (Front & Back)

1. Front Bodice: Start with your front bodice sloper. Mark the position for a square neckline, which should be wide and not too deep. Draw new lines for princess seams that run from the armhole to the waistline. This will create a contoured, fitted shape.
2. Back Bodice: Use your back bodice sloper. Draw a centre seam line for the zipper opening. Add a princess seam from the armhole to the waistline, mirroring the front.
3. Sleeves: Draft a long, fitted sleeve pattern. Measure the sleeve length and circumference at the elbow and wrist to ensure a perfect fit.

Skirt (Front & Back)

1. Front Skirt: Take your waist measurement and divide it by two. Use this to create a gathered or pleated pattern piece. A simple method is to create a large rectangle with a width that is 2-3 times your waist measurement and a length equal to your desired skirt length.
2. Back Skirt: The back skirt pattern will be similar to the front but with additional length for the train. Extend the bottom hemline in a gradual curve from the side seams to create the train effect.
3. Lining: Draft separate lining patterns for all pieces. The lining patterns will be the same as the outer shell patterns.

Seam Allowances

• Seams: Add a 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) seam allowance to all pattern pieces.
• Hems: Add a 4 cm (1.5 inch) hem allowance to the bottom of the skirt patterns.

4. Construction Instructions and Method

1. Fabric Preparation: Before cutting, press all fabric pieces with an iron on a low setting to remove wrinkles and pre-shrink them if necessary.
2. Cutting: Lay out the patterns on the fabric, following the grainline. Cut all pieces for the outer shell and the lining. Remember to cut interfacing for the bodice front and back panels.
3. Bodice Construction:
• Fuse the interfacing to the outer bodice pieces.
• Sew the princess seams on the front and back bodice pieces, right sides together. Press seams open.
• Sew the side seams and shoulder seams.
• Insert the boning channels along the princess seams for support.
4. Skirt Construction:
• Sew the front and back skirt panels together at the side seams.
• Gather or pleat the waistline of the skirt to match the waist measurement of the bodice.
5. Assembly:
• Attach the skirt to the bodice at the waistline, right sides together.
• Attach the lining to the main shell, leaving an opening at the back to insert the zipper.
• Insert the sleeves, carefully matching the shoulder seam.
6. Finishing Touches:
• Insert the invisible zipper at the centre back.
• Attach the lining to the zipper.
• Finish the neckline and sleeve hems.
• Hand-sew the sequin and bead embroidery onto the gown, following your desired pattern.

5. General Sewing and Fitting Tips

• Practice on a Muslin: Before cutting into your final fabric, create a test garment (muslin) using a cheap cotton fabric. This allows you to check the fit and make any necessary pattern adjustments.
• Press as You Go: Pressing each seam as it is sewn ensures a professional and clean finish.
• Work Slowly with Delicate Fabric: If you are using silk, use a sharp, new needle and take your time.
• Hand Baste: For intricate or curved seams, hand-basting before machine-stitching can prevent the fabric from shifting.
• Check the Fit: Have someone help you with fitting the muslin and the final gown. Mark any adjustments needed to the seams.