Shaping Your Foundation Pattern with Ease
Now that you have the basic outline, let's add ease allowances and shape your body foundation pattern!
Shoulders:
- Extend straight lines from the top of your shaping marks on both the front and back bodice.
- Measure 2 cm up from the original shoulder guidelines and mark these points. These will be your new shoulder lines.
- Shorten the ends of the original shoulder guidelines by 1 cm each.
Neck Back:
- Draw a smooth curve from the top of the back shaping towards the centre back neckline.
Neck Front:
- Measure 2.5 cm downwards from the end of each shoulder guideline. Mark these points.
- Draw a curved line connecting these points to create the front neckline.
Waist:
- Add a 1 cm dart on each side of the waistline (one on the front bodice piece and one on the back bodice piece). Remember, some darts are necessary for shaping, while others can be added for design details.
Side Seams:
Don't just connect the waistlines! Here's how to create a smooth curve:
- Measure 1/4 of your waist measurement with ease allowance added.
- Starting from this point on the side seam, draw a curved line that connects the bodice shaping points to the bottom of the pattern.
By following these steps, you'll create a foundation pattern with shaped seams and ease allowances for a comfortable fit.
Shaping Your Sleeve Foundation Pattern with Ease
1. Draw the measurement ease allowance underarm line and a centre shoulder point line in full sleeve length.
2. Mark a centre shoulder point using the sleeve cap measurement ease allowance.
3.Then draw the lines from the shoulder point toward back and front underarm lines.
4. For the back sleeve curve divide slope line by 3 to get 1/3 measurement for the lower point underarm line reduce 1 cm inward curve and increase 1.5 cm upward before shaping the top curve.
5. For the front sleeve curve divide by slope line by 2 to get half point underarm curve reduce 1 cm inward and increase 2 cm outward then shaping the top curve.
With the basic sleeve outline you are able to shape your sleeve.
Method of Drafting Children Main Pattern based on example size 5 in cm.
Measurement can be in inches [inch] or centimetres [cm]
Measurement
Height about 115cm
Chest 62cm
Waist 57cm
Hip 64cm
Back Waist Length 27.75
Semi Fitted Ease Allowance
Chest 7cm
Waist 3.5cm
Full Hip 8cm
Therefore add the Measurement and Ease Allowance then divide by 4 [Quarter Pattern].
Chest 62cm + 7cm = 69cm /4 = 17.25cm
Waist 57cm +3.5cm =60.5/4 = 15.1cm
Hip 64cm + 8cm = 72cm/ 4= 18cm
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Children Pattern Sizes
Create different pattern sizes from the Basic Pattern Method with different ease allowances.
For Children Pattern size uses Semi Fitted Ease Allowance for extra room. Children grow at a greater rate with the extra room enable a child to wear a garment through a certain time while the garment is still in good condition.
Semi Fitted Ease Chest: 7 Waist: 3.5 Hip: 8
Allowance-cm:
Measurement Guide
Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Chest: 60 Waist: 56 Hip: 62
Height: 108
Back Waist Length: 27.5
Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Chest: 62 Waist: 57 Hip: 64
Height: 115
Back Waist Length: 27.75
Size 6 [Age 6] in cm Chest: 64 Waist: 58 Hip: 66
Height: 120
Back Waist Length: 28
Size 7 [Age 7] in cm Chest: 66 Waist: 59 Hip: 68
Height: 125
Back Waist Length: 28.25
Size 8 [Age 8] in cm Chest: 68 Waist: 60 Hip: 72
Height: 130
Back Waist Length: 28.5
For increases the Pattern Sizes just add the different same as decreases Pattern Sizes less the different.
Example on increases the Pattern Sizes:
Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Chest: 60
Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Chest: 62
Chest 62 less 60 so the different is 2cm divide by 4 = .5cm
Then add the different [.5cm] to Size 5 Chest measurement
Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Waist: 56
Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Waist: 57
Waist: 57 less 56 so the different is 1cm divide by 4 = .25cm
Then add the different [.25cm] to Size 5 Waist measurement
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Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Hip: 62
Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Hip: 64
Hip 62 less 64 so the different is 2cm divide by 4 = .5cm
Then add the different [.5cm] to Size 5 Hip measurement
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Size 4 [Age 4] in cm Back Waist Length: 27.5
Size 5 [Age 5] in cm Back Waist Length: 27.75
Back Waist Length: 27.75 less 27.5 so the different is .25
Increase [.25cm] for Size 5 Center Neck and Shoulder measurement
