Cutout Ribbed Knit Midi Dress

 

A Cutout Ribbed Knit Midi Dress for kids combines modern, sporty-chic styling with maximum play-friendly stretch. Designed specifically for children, the cutouts are modestly placed at the side waist or upper back—giving a stylish peek-a-boo detail while ensuring full coverage, comfort, and ease of movement without needing zippers or buttons.

Below is a complete pattern drafting and construction guide tailored for a child’s size (approx. Size 6–8 years).

1. Materials and Suitable Fabrics

Because this is a pull-on knit garment, selecting fabrics with strong recovery (so the cutouts don't sag or gape) is essential.

• Main Dress Fabric:
  
• Best Choices: 2x2 or 4x2 Cotton-Spandex Rib Knit (at least 5%–8% Spandex/Elastane, 220–260 GSM), Bamboo-Spandex Rib Knit, or Modal Rib Knit. Look for 4-way stretch with crisp recovery.
  
• Lining Fabric (for Bodice & Cutout Edges):
  
• Lightweight Cotton-Lycra jersey or breathable bamboo jersey (matching the stretch percentage of your outer rib knit so seams do not pucker).
  
• Notions & Hardware:
  
• 1/4" (6 mm) clear elastic or braided cotton elastic (crucial for stabilising the cutout edges and shoulder seams).
  
• Stretch / Ballpoint sewing machine needles (Size 75/11 or 80/12).
  
• Twin stretch needle (2.5 mm or 4.0 mm spacing) for professional topstitching and hems.
  
• All-purpose polyester thread (or woolly nylon thread in the bobbin/looper for extra stretch).
  

2. Standard Body Measurements (Child Size 6–8)

Take snug, accurate body measurements. Because rib knit has high stretch, we will apply negative ease during pattern drafting so the dress hugs comfortably without bagging at the cutouts.

Measurement Point	Size 6	Size 8
Chest / Bust	25" (63.5 cm)	26.5" (67 cm)
Natural Waist	23" (58.5 cm)	24" (61 cm)
Hip	26" (66 cm)	28" (71 cm)
Shoulder Width	10.5" (26.5 cm)	11" (28 cm)
Back Waist Length	10.5" (26.5 cm)	11.5" (29 cm)
Midi Skirt Length (Waist to Mid-Calf)	18" (45.5 cm)	20" (51 cm)

3. Step-by-Step Pattern Drafting

In this design, the bodice and midi skirt meet at a bridge panel (usually at the centre front and centre back), leaving oval or teardrop side-waist cutouts on the left and right sides.

Step A: Drafting the Front Bodice (with Side Cutouts)

1. Center Front Guideline: Draw a vertical line equal to the Back Waist Length (10.5" for Size 6). Mark this line Cut on Fold.
   
2. Negative Ease Calculation: Multiply the child's Chest and Waist measurements by 0.90 (10% negative ease for medium-weight rib knit).
   
• Size 6 Adjusted Quarter Chest: (25" times 0.90) \div 4 = 5.6"
  
• Size 6 Adjusted Quarter Waist: (23" times 0.90) \div 4 = 5.2"
  
3. Neckline & Shoulders: At the top corner, measure out 2.25" horizontally and drop down 2.5" for a comfortable crew/scoop neck. From the neck edge, measure out 2.5" for a modern sleeveless tank shoulder (or full shoulder width minus 0.5" for short sleeves).
   
4. Armhole: Drop vertically down 6.25" from the shoulder tip to the chest line and connect with a smooth J-curve.
   
5. Shaping the Side Cutout:
   
• From the underarm point, trace the side seam down 2.5" toward the waist.
  
• At the waistline, measure out 2.5" from the Center Front Fold to create the centre waist "bridge."
  
• Draw a smooth, concave oval curve connecting the upper side seam (2.5" below the armhole) down to the 2.5" waist bridge mark. This carved-out crescent forms the top half of your side cutout.
  

Step B: Drafting the Back Bodice

1. Center Back Line: Draw a vertical line matching the Back Waist Length (10.5"). Mark Cut on Fold (no zipper needed due to knit stretch).
   
2. Back Neckline: Measure out 2.25" horizontally and drop down 1" vertically. Curve smoothly.
   
3. Armhole & Side Cutout: Match the exact shoulder width, armhole depth, upper side seam (2.5" below armhole), and waist bridge width (2.5" from Center Back Fold) from the Front Bodice so the side cutouts mirror each other symmetrically.
   

Step C: Drafting the Front & Back Midi Skirt

1. Skirt Width & Length: Draw a vertical Center Fold line equal to the Midi Skirt Length (18" for Size 6).
   
2. Hip & Hem Width: At 5" below the waist, measure out the adjusted quarter Hip: (26" times 0.90) \div 4 = 5.85". Continue straight down (or flare outward by 0.75" for an A-line midi) to the bottom hem.
   
3. Top Waist Cutout Curve:
   
• At the top waist edge, mark 2.5" out from the Center Fold so it matches the bodice waist bridge width.
  
• Drop 1.5" down along the outer side seam.
  
• Connect the 2.5" waist bridge point to the dropped side-seam mark with a gentle downward curve. When joined to the bodice, this completes the oval side cutout.
  

Step D: Neckband, Armhole Binding & Lining

• Lining Pattern: Trace the exact Front Bodice and Back Bodice patterns. (Lining the skirt is optional unless using white/light-coloured rib knit; if lining the skirt, trace the skirt pattern and shorten the hem by 1.5").
  
• Neckband & Armhole Bands: Measure the total neckline circumference and multiply by 0.85 for the band length, cutting a strip 1.5" wide (grainline running lengthwise with maximum stretch). Do the same for both armholes.
  

4. Seam Allowances & Cutting Guide

• Seam Allowances:
  
• Standard construction seams (shoulders, side seams, waist bridge): 3/8" (1 cm) (ideal for a 4-thread serger or narrow stretch stitch).
  
• Cutout edges (if bagged with lining): 1/4" (0.6 cm).
  
• Midi skirt bottom hem: 3/4" (2 cm).
  
• Cutting List:
  
• Front Bodice: Cut 1 on fold (Rib Knit), Cut 1 on fold (Jersey Lining).
  
• Back Bodice: Cut 1 on fold (Rib Knit), Cut 1 on fold (Jersey Lining).
  
• Front Midi Skirt: Cut 1 on fold (Rib Knit).
  
• Back Midi Skirt: Cut 1 on fold (Rib Knit).
  
• Neckband & Armhole Bands: Cut 1 neckband + 2 armhole bands (Rib Knit).
  

5. Construction Instructions

1. Sew Bodice Shoulder & Upper Side Seams:
   
• Place the outer Front and Back Bodice right sides together. Stitch the shoulder seams and the short upper side seams (above the cutout) using a stretch stitch or serger (3/8" seam). Repeat this exact step for the Bodice Lining.
  
2. Stabilise and Bag the Bodice Cutouts:
   
• Cut two pieces of 1/4" clear elastic equal to the curved length of the bodice cutout edges.
  
• Place the Outer Bodice and Bodice Lining right sides together. Pin along the curved cutout edges, laying the clear elastic inside the seam allowance on the wrong side of the outer fabric.
  
• Stitch along the cutout curve at 1/4" using a narrow zigzag stitch, gently stretching the elastic only enough to keep it flat (do not gather). Turn the bodice right-side out and steam lightly—the elastic prevents the cutout from stretching out during wear.
  
3. Attach Bodice to Skirt at the Waist Bridges:
   
• Pin the Front Bodice waist bridge (5" total width) to the Front Skirt waist bridge, right sides together (sandwiching the bodice lining so raw edges are enclosed, or serging the seam cleanly). Stitch at 3/8". Repeat for the Back Bodice and Back Skirt.
  
4. Sew Skirt Side Seams & Top Cutout Curves:
   
• Pin the Front and Back Midi Skirts right sides together along the long vertical side seams (starting from the bottom corner of the side cutout all the way down to the midi hem). Stitch at 3/8".
  
• For the exposed top curved edge of the skirt cutout: fold under 1/4" clear elastic toward the wrong side along the curve, and stitch down with a twin needle or triple zigzag stitch for a crisp, sporty finish.
  
5. Attach Neckband and Armhole Bands:
   
• Sew the short ends of the neckband together to form a loop. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.
  
• Divide both the neckband and dress neckline into quarters with pins. Pin right sides together, stretching the band slightly between pins to fit smoothly, and serge or stitch at 3/8". Press seam allowance toward the dress and topstitch with a twin needle. Repeat for both armholes.
  
6. Hem the Midi Skirt:
   
• Fold the bottom hem up by 3/4" toward the wrong side, pin, and sew using a twin stretch needle (or cover-stitch) so the hem stretches easily when the child walks or jumps.
  

6. Sewing Tips for Success

• Prevent Rib Knit Waviness ("Lettuce Edge"): Rib knits easily stretch out under the presser foot. Lower your machine’s presser foot pressure (if adjustable) and avoid pulling or pushing the fabric as it feeds through. Always steam-press seams vertically (lift and press) rather than dragging the iron back and forth.
  
• Always Use Clear Elastic on Cutouts: Without clear elastic in the cutout seams, ribbed knit will gradually droop after a few wears and washes. Keep a damp pressing cloth between your iron and clear elastic so it doesn't melt.
  
• Choose the Right Stitch: If you do not have a serger, use a lightning bolt stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch (width 1.5 mm, length 2.5 mm) for all seams so threads won't pop when pulled over a child's head.
  
• Modesty & Coverage Check: Before stitching the waist bridges permanently, have the child try on the basted garment to ensure the side cutouts sit comfortably right at the natural side waist without exposing the chest or dipping below the hip bone.