Panda Bear Baby Sweater Pattern
Size: 6-9 Months
Yarn Weight: 4 Ply (Fingering weight)
Yarn Requirement: Approximately 4 x 50g balls of main colour (e.g., light grey or cream), 1 x 50g ball of black, 1 x 50g ball of white, and a small amount of green for bamboo.
Measurements (Approximate Finished Measurements):
- Chest Circumference: 50 cm (20 inches)
- Length from Shoulder: 28 cm (11 inches)
- Sleeve Length (from underarm): 18 cm (7 inches)
Needle Sizes:
- 3.00 mm (US 2.5) straight or circular needles (for ribbing)
- 3.25 mm (US 3) straight or circular needles (for main body)
- 2.50 mm (US 1.5) DPNs or short circular needle (for neckband)
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and embroidery
- Stitch holders
Buttons:
- 3 small buttons (approx. 1.5 cm / 0.6 inches diameter) for the cardigan front.
Tension Gauge (Crucial for correct sizing):
- 28 stitches and 36 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch (St st) using 3.25 mm needles.
- Please check your tension carefully before starting. If you have too many stitches per 10 cm, use larger needles. If you have too few, use smaller needles.
Abbreviations:
- K: Knit
- P: Purl
- St(s): Stitch(es)
- RS: Right Side
- WS: Wrong Side
- St st: Stocking Stitch (K on RS, P on WS)
- G st: Garter Stitch (K every row)
- Rib: Ribbing
- M1: Make 1 stitch (increase by picking up strand between stitches and knitting into back of it)
- K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together (decrease)
- P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together (decrease)
- BO: Bind Off
- CO: Cast On
- Rep: Repeat
- Rem: Remaining
- Cont: Continue
- MC: Main Color
- CC: Contrast Color
- Pm: Place marker
- Sm: Slip marker
- C4B: Cable 4 Back (slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold at back of work, K2, then K2 from cable needle)
- C4F: Cable 4 Front (slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold at front of work, K2, then K2 from cable needle)
Stitch Patterns:
- 1x1 Rib: K1, P1 repeat across.
- Stocking Stitch (St st): Knit on RS rows, Purl on WS rows.
- Garter Stitch (G st): Knit every row.
- Rope Ball-band Ribbing (for cuffs and hem):
- Row 1 (RS): K1, P2, C4B, P2, K1 repeat to end.
- Row 2 (WS): P1, K2, P4, K2, P1 repeat to end.
- Row 3 (RS): K1, P2, K4, P2, K1 repeat to end.
- Row 4 (WS): P1, K2, P4, K2, P1 repeat to end.
- Row 5 (RS): K1, P2, C4F, P2, K1 repeat to end.
- Row 6 (WS): P1, K2, P4, K2, P1 repeat to end.
- Note: This is a 6-row repeat. Adjust the number of stitches CO to be a multiple of 9 + 2 (for the K1 edge stitches).
Special Techniques:
- Intarsia: For the panda bear design, you will use the intarsia method to create colour blocks. Use separate small bobbins of yarn for each colour section. Twist yarns together when changing colours to avoid holes.
- Duplicate Stitch/Swiss Darning: For adding finer details like the panda's eyes, nose, and mouth, and the bamboo leaves after the main knitting is complete.
- Three-Needle Bind Off: For joining shoulder seams neatly.
Construction Method: Bottom-Up Cardigan
General Calculation Formulas:
- Stitches for Ribbing: (Chest Circumference in cm / 10 cm) * Gauge Stitches per 10 cm - (adjust for ribbing stretch, usually slightly fewer stitches than main body).
- Stitches for Main Body: (Chest Circumference in cm / 10 cm) * Gauge Stitches per 10 cm.
- Rows for Length: (Desired Length in cm / 10 cm) * Gauge Rows per 10 cm.
- Armhole Depth: (Chest Circumference in cm / 4) - 2 cm (approx.).
- Sleeve Taper: Calculate total decrease stitches needed (from widest part to cuff) and distribute evenly over the sleeve length.
Pattern Instructions
1. Back Piece:
- CO: Using 3.00 mm needles and MC, CO 78 stitches.
- Ribbing: Work in Rope Ball-band Ribbing for 18 rows (approx. 5 cm / 2 inches), ending with a WS row.
- Change to Main Body: Change to 3.25 mm needles.
- Next Row (RS): K across, increasing 6 stitches evenly across the row (84 stitches).
- Body: Work in St st until piece measures 18 cm (7 inches) from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
- Shape Armholes:
- BO 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows (76 stitches rem).
- Decrease 1 st at each end of next 3 RS rows (70 stitches rem).
- Cont straight in St st until armhole measures 10 cm (4 inches), ending with a WS row.
- Shape Shoulders:
- BO 6 sts at beginning of next 4 rows.
- BO rem 46 sts for back neck.
2. Left Front Piece:
- CO: Using 3.00 mm needles and MC, CO 39 stitches.
- Ribbing: Work in Rope Ball-band Ribbing for 18 rows (approx. 5 cm / 2 inches), ending with a WS row.
- Change to Main Body: Change to 3.25 mm needles.
- Next Row (RS): K across, increasing 3 stitches evenly across the row (42 stitches).
- Body: Work in St st until piece measures 18 cm (7 inches) from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
- Shape Armhole:
- BO 4 sts at beginning of next RS row (38 stitches rem).
- Decrease 1 st at armhole edge on next 3 RS rows (35 stitches rem).
- Cont straight in St st until armhole measures 7 cm (2.75 inches), ending with a RS row.
- Shape Neck:
- Next Row (WS): BO 6 sts at beginning of row (neck edge), P to end (29 stitches rem).
- Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 5 WS rows (24 stitches rem).
- Cont straight until armhole measures 10 cm (4 inches), ending with a WS row.
- Shape Shoulder:
- BO 6 sts at beginning of next 3 RS rows.
- BO rem 6 sts.
3. Right Front Piece:
- CO: Using 3.00 mm needles and MC, CO 39 stitches.
- Ribbing: Work in Rope Ball-band Ribbing for 18 rows (approx. 5 cm / 2 inches), ending with a WS row.
- Change to Main Body: Change to 3.25 mm needles.
- Next Row (RS): K across, increasing 3 stitches evenly across the row (42 stitches).
- Body: Work in St st until piece measures 18 cm (7 inches) from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
- Shape Armhole:
- BO 4 sts at beginning of next WS row (38 stitches rem).
- Decrease 1 st at armhole edge on next 3 WS rows (35 stitches rem).
- Cont straight in St st until armhole measures 7 cm (2.75 inches), ending with a WS row.
- Shape Neck:
- Next Row (RS): BO 6 sts at beginning of row (neck edge), K to end (29 stitches rem).
- Decrease 1 st at neck edge on next 5 RS rows (24 stitches rem).
- Cont straight until armhole measures 10 cm (4 inches), ending with a RS row.
- Shape Shoulder:
- BO 6 sts at beginning of next 3 WS rows.
- BO rem 6 sts.
4. Sleeves (Make 2):
- CO: Using 3.00 mm needles and MC, CO 40 stitches.
- Ribbing: Work in Rope Ball-band Ribbing for 12 rows (approx. 4 cm / 1.5 inches), ending with a WS row.
- Change to Main Body: Change to 3.25 mm needles.
- Next Row (RS): K across, increasing 4 stitches evenly across the row (44 stitches).
- Body: Work in St st, increasing 1 st at each end of every 6th row until you have 56 stitches.
- Cont straight until sleeve measures 18 cm (7 inches) from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
- Shape Sleeve Cap:
- BO 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows (48 stitches rem).
- Decrease 1 st at each end of every RS row until 20 stitches rem.
- BO rem 20 stitches.
5. Neckband:
- Join Shoulders: Join shoulder seams using the three-needle bind-off or mattress stitch.
- Pick Up Stitches: Using 2.50 mm DPNs or short circular needle and MC, pick up and knit approximately 70-75 stitches evenly around the neck edge (starting from right front, around back, to left front).
- Ribbing: Work in 1x1 Rib for 6 rows (approx. 2 cm / 0.75 inches).
- BO: Loosely BO in rib.
6. Button Bands:
- Right Front Button Band: Using 3.00 mm needles and MC, pick up and knit approximately 50-55 stitches evenly along the right front edge. Work in 1x1 Rib for 4 rows. BO in rib.
- Left Front Buttonhole Band: Using 3.00 mm needles and MC, pick up and knit approximately 50-55 stitches evenly along the left front edge. Work in 1x1 Rib for 2 rows.
- Buttonhole Row (RS): Work 2 sts in rib, BO 2 sts, work 8-10 sts in rib repeat 2 more times (creating 3 buttonholes), BO 2 sts, work to end. (Adjust spacing based on your button size and desired button placement).
- Next Row (WS): Work in rib, casting on 2 sts over each buttonhole.
- Work 1 more row in 1x1 Rib. BO in rib.
Panda Bear Design (Intarsia & Duplicate Stitch)
- Intarsia: Use a chart (you'll need to create or find a simple panda chart for intarsia) for the main body of the panda. This is typically worked on the Back piece, centred. Start the intarsia when the Back piece is about 8-10 cm from the CO edge.
- Basic Panda Shape: Use black yarn for the main body/head, white for the belly/face, and green for the bamboo stalk.
- Technique: When changing colours, twist the old and new yarns together on the wrong side of the work to prevent holes. Carry separate bobbins for each colour section.
- Duplicate Stitch/Embroidery: Once the sweater is assembled, use black yarn for the eyes, nose, and mouth, and green yarn for the bamboo leaves. Use a tapestry needle to stitch over existing knit stitches, creating the details.
Finishing and Care Tips
- Seaming:
- Join side seams and sleeve seams using mattress stitch for an invisible finish.
- Set in sleeves using mattress stitch, aligning the centre of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam.
- Weaving in Ends: Carefully weave in all loose yarn ends using a tapestry needle on the wrong side of the work.
- Blocking: Gently wash the finished sweater according to yarn instructions. Lay flat on a towel, shaping it to the correct measurements, and allow it to dry completely. Blocking helps to even out stitches and gives the garment a professional finish.
- Attaching Buttons: Sew the buttons securely onto the right front band, aligning them with the buttonholes on the left front band.
- Care:
- Washing: Hand wash in cool water with a gentle wool-friendly detergent. Avoid harsh scrubbing or twisting.
- Drying: Roll in a towel to remove excess water, then lay flat to dry on a clean, dry surface away from direct sunlight or heat.
- Storage: Store folded, not hung, to prevent stretching.
This pattern provides a comprehensive guide. Remember to always check your tension gauge before starting to ensure your finished sweater matches the intended size. Happy knitting!