Floral Eyelet A-Line

 

          A sleeveless A-line dress made from crisp floral eyelet fabric with a matching tie-belt.

I. Suitable Fabrics

For a crisp floral eyelet A-line dress, the fabric choice is key to getting the classic structured yet airy look. The term "eyelet" refers to the embroidered or perforated design, often found on a base fabric.

• Floral Eyelet: This is the ideal choice. It's typically a lightweight to medium-weight cotton or cotton blend. The fabric's natural crispness helps the A-line skirt hold its shape without being stiff, and the embroidered details add beautiful texture.
• Cotton Sateen: If you can't find a suitable eyelet, a cotton sateen is a great alternative. It has a slight sheen and a smooth finish, and it holds its shape well.
• Broadcloth or Poplin: These are crisp, tightly woven cotton fabrics. They are excellent for holding the A-line shape and are easy to sew. While they lack the embroidered detail, they can be a great base for a simple and elegant dress.
• Linen or Linen Blends: Linen has a lovely drape and a casual, natural feel. It works well for an A-line silhouette, but be aware that it wrinkles easily, which may not be the "crisp" look you're going for.

Fabrics to Avoid:

Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit, as they will not hold the A-line shape. Also, avoid very heavy fabrics like canvas, which would make the dress too bulky.

II. Body Measurements

Accurate measurements are the foundation for a well-fitting dress. It's best to have someone help you take these.

• Full Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
• Waist: Measure the narrowest part of your torso, usually just above your belly button.
• Back Waist Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of your neck down to your natural waistline.
• Desired Skirt Length: Measure from your natural waistline down to where you want the hem to fall.

III. Pattern Drafting (Step-by-Step)

This guide assumes you are starting with a basic bodice block or a sloper. If you don't have one, you can draft one from your measurements or find a basic pattern online.

A. Front and Back Bodice

1. Trace your Bodice Block: Trace your front and back bodice blocks onto pattern paper.
2. Create the Sleeveless Armhole: On both the front and back pieces, redraw the armhole curve to a more open, sleeveless shape. You may need to take in the shoulder seam slightly.
3. Shape the Neckline: Draft a simple, high neckline (like a jewel or boat neck) on both the front and back pieces.
4. Add Darts: Transfer any existing darts from your block or create new ones to ensure a close fit at the waist and bust.

B. Front and Back Skirt

1. Start with the Basic Skirt Block: Trace your basic skirt block (a rectangle or A-line) onto pattern paper. The length should be your desired skirt length.
2. Create the A-Line Flare: To create the A-line shape, use the "slash and spread" method.
• Draw several vertical lines on your skirt pattern, from the waist down to the hem.
• Cut along these lines, from the bottom hem up to the waist, but do not cut all the way through the waist seam. Leave a small hinge of paper.
• Gently pivot the cut pieces to spread them out at the hem. The more you spread, the fuller the A-line will be.
• Tape the pattern in place to a new piece of paper and re-draw the hemline as a smooth, continuous curve.

C. Lining and Seam Allowances

• Lining: You must use a full lining for an eyelet dress. This is crucial for modesty, to prevent the dress from being see-through, and to give it a clean finish. Draft a lining pattern by creating exact copies of your final bodice and skirt patterns.
• Tie-Belt: The belt is a simple rectangle. The width should be about 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) and the length should be long enough to tie a bow (e.g., 60 inches or 150 cm).
• Seam Allowances: Add a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance to all pattern pieces (bodice, skirt, and lining) along all edges that will be sewn. Add a 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) hem allowance to the bottom of the dress and the lining.

IV. Instructions and Method

1. Cut the Fabric: Cut all your pattern pieces from both the eyelet fabric and the lining fabric. Ensure your grain lines are straight.
2. Sew the Darts: On both the main bodice and the lining bodice, sew the bust and waist darts. Press them flat.
3. Sew the Main Dress: Pin the front and back main bodice pieces together at the side seams and the shoulder seams. Sew these seams. Repeat this for the main skirt pieces. Sew the bodice and skirt together at the waistline.
4. Sew the Lining: Repeat step 3 for the lining pieces.
5. Insert Zipper: On the main dress, insert an invisible or standard zipper into the centre back seam.
6. Attach the Lining: Place the main dress and the lining dress with right sides facing. Pin along the neckline, armholes, and the back zipper opening. Sew these seams.
7. Finish the Dress: Clip the curves and corners, and turn the dress right side out through the shoulder seam or a small opening at the bottom of the lining. Hand-stitch or machine-stitch the opening closed.
8. Create the Tie-Belt: Fold the belt fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew the long edge and one short end. Turn the belt right side out, press, and hand-stitch the remaining open end closed.
9. Hem: Hem the lining and the main dress separately. Since eyelet fabric doesn't fray, you can simply press the hem and sew it in place.

V. General Sewing Tips

• Needle and Thread: Use a sharp needle (size 70/10 or 80/12) to avoid snagging the delicate eyelet fabric.
• Pins: Use extra-fine or silk pins to avoid making permanent holes in the eyelet.
• Pressing: Use a press cloth and a low to medium heat setting to press the eyelet fabric. Do not stretch it while pressing.
• Test Stitch: Always sew a test seam on a scrap piece of fabric to check your machine settings.
• Patience: Working with eyelet can be slow due to the intricate pattern. Take your time to align your pieces carefully before sewing.

The glow-in-the-dark hanger plant hanger

 

The glow-in-the-dark hanger plant hanger

Materials:

• Macrame cord (cotton or jute)
• Glow-in-the-dark paint
• Scissors
• Wooden ring or dowel
• Measuring tape

Instructions:

1. Cut the cord: Cut the cord into lengths depending on the size of the plant hanger you desire.
2. Attach the cord to the ring: Fold the cord in half and tie a lark's head knot around the ring or dowel.
3. Create the macrame pattern: There are many different macrame patterns you can use for the glow-in-the-dark plant hanger. Some popular options include the spiral knot, square knot, or diamond knot.
4. Add the glow-in-the-dark paint: Once the macrame pattern is complete, you can add the glow-in-the-dark paint to the design. You can use a brush or sponge to apply the paint.
5. Create the plant basket: Once the glow-in-the-dark paint is dry, gather the cords together to form a basket for the plant pot.
6. Finish the hanger: Trim any excess cord and secure the bottom of the hanger with a knot.

Tips:

• Choose a macrame pattern that is appropriate for the size of the plant hanger you are making.
• Be patient and take your time when creating the macrame pattern.
• Use a variety of knots to add interest to the design.
• Add tassels or other embellishments to the bottom of the hanger for a more finished look.

Here are some additional tips for creating a beautiful glow-in-the-dark plant hanger:

• Choose the right cord: The type of cord you choose will affect the overall look of your plant hanger. Cotton cord is a popular choice for its softness and durability, while jute cord has a more rustic look.
• Consider the size of your plant: The size of your plant will determine the size of the plant hanger you need to make.
• Use a variety of knots: Experiment with different knots to create a more interesting design. You can find many different macrame knot tutorials online.
• Add tassels or other embellishments: Tassels, feathers, or other embellishments can add a touch of personality to your plant hanger.
• Have fun and be creative! There are no rules when it comes to creating a glow-in-the-dark plant hanger. Let your imagination run wild and create a design that you love.

With a little practice, you can create a beautiful and unique glow-in-the-dark plant hanger that will add a touch of personality to your home.

Spicy Tuna Tataki with Puttanesca Sauce

 

Spicy Tuna Tataki with Puttanesca Sauce

This recipe is a testament to the power of culinary fusion, bringing together the delicate, seared precision of Japanese tuna tataki with the robust, punchy flavours of classic Italian puttanesca sauce. The result is a vibrant, unexpected, and utterly delicious dish that's perfect as an appetiser or a light main course. The cool, tender tuna is beautifully complemented by the warm, zesty sauce, while a bed of peppery arugula adds a fresh, crisp texture.

Ingredients

For the Tuna Tataki

• 1 lb sushi-grade tuna loin, about 2 inches thick
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
• 1 teaspoon white sesame seeds
• 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Salt to taste

For the Puttanesca Sauce

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or more, to taste)
• 1 (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes, undrained
• 1/4 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped¹
  
• 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
• 3 anchovy fillets, mashed to a paste
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
• Salt and black pepper to taste

For Assembly

• 2 cups arugula
• Lemon wedges, for serving

Instructions

1. Prepare the Tuna: Pat the tuna loin completely dry with paper towels. Season all sides with salt. In a small, shallow dish, combine the crushed black peppercorns, white sesame seeds, and black sesame seeds. Roll the tuna loin in the mixture, pressing gently to ensure an even coating on all sides.
2. Sear the Tuna: Heat the olive oil in a non-stick skillet over high heat until it shimmers. Carefully place the tuna loin in the hot pan. Sear for about 30 seconds on each side, or just until a thin, golden-brown crust forms. The inside should remain completely raw. Remove from the pan and let it rest on a cutting board for at least 5 minutes.
3. Make the Puttanesca Sauce: While the tuna rests, prepare the sauce. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a separate saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté for about 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the diced tomatoes, Kalamata olives, capers, and the anchovy paste. Stir well to combine. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook for 5-7 minutes, allowing the flavours to meld. Stir in the fresh parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Slice the Tuna: Using a very sharp knife, carefully slice the seared tuna loin into 1/4-inch thick slices.
5. Assemble and Serve: Arrange a bed of fresh arugula on a serving platter. Neatly fan out the sliced tuna on top of the arugula. Spoon the warm puttanesca sauce over the tuna slices. Garnish with an extra sprinkle of parsley if desired. Serve immediately with a side of lemon wedges.

Tips for Success

• Quality is Key: As with any dish featuring raw fish, use only the highest quality, "sushi-grade" tuna from a trusted source.
• Don't Overcook the Tuna: The goal is a quick sear to cook the outside and leave the centre raw. A hot pan and a quick hand are essential.
• Rinse Your Capers: Capers are often packed in brine and can be very salty.² A quick rinse will help balance their flavour in the sauce.
  
  
• Mash the Anchovies: The anchovy paste is crucial for the savoury, umami flavour of the puttanesca. Mashing the fillets with the back of a spoon will help them dissolve seamlessly into the sauce.
• Serve Immediately: This dish is best enjoyed right after it's made, while the sauce is still warm and the tuna is cool and fresh.

Pleated Halter Dress

            Pleated Halter Dress

 This is a detailed guide for creating a pleated halter dress. It includes information on suitable fabrics, body measurements, a step-by-step pattern drafting process, seam allowances, and general sewing instructions and tips.

I. Suitable Fabrics

For a pleated, flowing halter dress, the fabric choice is crucial for achieving the desired drape and movement while also holding the pleats. Here are some excellent options:

• Chiffon: A lightweight, sheer fabric that drapes beautifully. It's ideal for a romantic, ethereal look. Chiffon made from polyester will hold pleats better than silk chiffon.
• Crepe: A fabric with a distinctive crinkled or pebbled surface. Crepe drapes well and adds a sophisticated texture. Look for polyester or synthetic blends, as they will hold a heat-set pleat more permanently.
• Satin: Known for its lustrous, smooth surface. Satin provides an elegant sheen and a beautiful drape. Polyester or silk satin can be used, but polyester is generally easier to work with and holds pleats better.
• Georgette: Similar to chiffon but slightly heavier and more opaque. Georgette has a fine, dull texture and a graceful, flowing quality that works well for pleats.
• Lightweight Polyester Blends: Many modern polyester fabrics are specifically designed to be heat-set into permanent pleats. These are a great choice for their durability, affordability, and wrinkle resistance.

Fabrics to Avoid:

• Heavy, stiff fabrics like canvas or denim will not drape well and are not suitable for a flowing design.
• Fabrics with a lot of stretch, like jersey or knits, will cause the pleats to lose their shape over time and are not recommended for this type of project.

II. Body Measurements

Accurate measurements are the foundation of a well-fitting garment. It's best to have someone assist you. Wear the undergarments you plan to wear with the dress.

• Full Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust. Keep the tape parallel to the floor.
• High Bust: Measure around your back and over the top of your bust, just under your armpits.
• Under-bust: Measure directly under your bust, where the bra band sits.
• Waist: Find the narrowest part of your torso, which is your natural waist. Tie a string around it to use as a guide.
• Back Length (Neck to Waist): Measure from the base of your neck (the bony bump on your spine) down to your natural waist.
• Front Length (Neck to Under-bust): Measure from the top of your shoulder at the base of your neck to the under-bust line.
• Skirt Length: Measure from your natural waist down to your desired hemline.

III. Pattern Drafting (Step-by-Step)

This guide assumes you are starting with a basic bodice block or a sloper. If you don't have one, you can draft one using your measurements or find a basic block pattern online.

A. Drafting the Bodice

Start with the Front Bodice: Trace your front bodice block on a large piece of pattern paper. Mark the bust apex (the fullest part of the bust).

1. Create the Halter Neckline: From the shoulder point, draw a diagonal line down to the side seam, creating a deep V-neckline. For a flattering fit, the neckline should end at least an inch or two below your armpit.
2. Draft the Back Bodice: Trace your back bodice block. To create the open-back cutout, draw a line from the side seam (at the same level as the front neckline) angled towards the centre back, creating the desired shape. The line can be a straight V, a deep U, or a keyhole shape. You will need to add a small closure (hook-and-eye or button) at the top of the neck.
3. Add Pleats to the Bodice: This is the most crucial step. Decide on the width of your pleats (e.g., 1 inch). On your front bodice pattern, draw several parallel lines from the neckline down to the under-bust line. These are your "slash and spread" lines. Cut along these lines from the neckline down to the under-bust, but do not cut through the under-bust line. Gently spread the paper apart at the neckline to create the space for the pleats. The amount you spread is determined by the pleat width. For a 1-inch pleat, you need 3 inches of fabric (1 inch for the visible pleat, and 2 inches to turn under). So, for each slash line, spread the pattern by 2 inches at the top.
4. Draft the Bodice Lining: Create a separate pattern piece for the bodice lining. This will be an exact copy of the final bodice pattern pieces before adding the pleats. You will sew the lining to the main bodice after the pleats are sewn.

B. Drafting the Skirt

1. Calculate Fabric Width for Pleats: To determine the fabric width needed for your pleated skirt, multiply your waist measurement by 3 (for pleats) and add seam allowances. For example, if your waist is 28 inches, you need 28 x 3 = 84 inches of fabric, plus seam allowance. For a flowing skirt, you may want to use even more fabric (e.g., 4x or 5x your waist measurement) to create a fuller, softer look.
2. Draft the Skirt Pattern: The skirt pattern is a simple rectangle. The width is your calculated fabric width, and the length is your desired skirt length plus hem allowance.

C. Seam Allowances & Linings

• Bodice: Use a standard 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance for all seams (side seams, neckline, armholes, etc.).
• Skirt: Use a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance on the side seams and a 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) hem allowance at the bottom.
• Lining: The lining pieces should have the same seam allowances as the main fabric.

IV. Construction Instructions

1. Prepare the Fabric: If your fabric is not pre-pleated, you will need to create the pleats. You can do this by marking the pleats directly on the fabric with chalk or a disappearing fabric pen. Mark the fold line and the placement line for each pleat. For a flowing look, pin or baste the pleats only at the waistline. For a crisp look, you can sew the pleats down for a few inches from the waist. Press the pleats with an iron to set them in place. Use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric.
2. Sew the Bodice:
• Pin the front and back bodice pieces together at the side seams, right sides together. Sew the seams with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
• Repeat the process for the bodice lining pieces.
3. Attach the Lining:
• Place the main bodice and the lining bodice right sides together. Pin along the neckline and armhole edges.
• Sew the neckline and armhole seams with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
• Clip the curves and trim the seam allowances to reduce bulk.
• Turn the bodice right side out through the shoulder and side seams.
• Press the edges neatly.
4. Attach the Skirt:
• Finish the raw edge of the top of the pleated skirt (the waistline) with a zigzag or serger stitch.
• Gather or pleat the top of the skirt to match the waist measurement of the bodice.
• Pin the bodice to the skirt at the waistline, right sides together. Match the side seams.
• Sew the waist seam with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
5. Add the Halter Ties:
• Cut two long strips of fabric for the halter ties. The length will depend on how you want to tie it, but 18-24 inches is a good starting point.
• Fold the strips in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew the long edge to create a tube.
• Turn the tubes right side out.
• Attach one end of each tie to the front neckline of the dress, near the point where it meets the shoulder. Hide the raw edges inside the neckline seam.
6. Add a Back Closure:
• Sew a small hook-and-eye closure or a button and loop at the top of the back cutout to secure the halter neckline.
7. Hem the Skirt:
• Turn up the hem by your desired allowance (1-2 inches) and press.
• Stitch the hem in place with a straight stitch.

V. General Sewing Instructions & Tips

• Needle and Thread: Use a new, sharp needle appropriate for your fabric type (e.g., a universal needle for most synthetics or a microtex needle for delicate fabrics like chiffon). Use a thread that matches the fabric.
• Sewing Machine Settings: Test a scrap piece of fabric first. Adjust your stitch length and tension to avoid puckering. A slightly shorter stitch length (2.0-2.5 mm) is often best for fine fabrics.
• Pressing: Pressing is key to a professional finish. Press after every seam to set the stitches. Use a pressing cloth to prevent scorching delicate fabrics.
• Handling Pleated Fabric: Be careful when handling pleated fabric to avoid crushing the pleats. Use a walking foot on your machine if you have one, as it helps feed multiple layers of fabric evenly.
• Patience is Key: Take your time with the pleating and delicate seams. Don't rush, and enjoy the process of creating this elegant dress.